tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-17854992881570343092024-03-05T23:54:20.783-08:00Simon's New Adventures In Hi FiSimonsNewAdventuresInHiFihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18135925051823781254noreply@blogger.comBlogger27125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1785499288157034309.post-42928298259922197932023-10-21T10:45:00.001-07:002023-10-23T02:59:33.847-07:00Audio Meet - Owston 21st October 2023<p>This was my first Owston since 2019 and it was great to meet up again with old friends. It's been an odd few years on a number of fronts. The pub had now changed to Dario's Ristorante, on old restaurant name in Doncaster from a good few years ago.</p><p>The weather over recent days had been very wet thanks to Storm Babet and the local watercourses were as high as I'd seen. Fortunately play got underway shortly after the usual 11am start, though the outfield was rather soggy...</p><p></p><p>(Some of the photos aren't focused very well. I'd forgotten how difficult it is for my camera to focus in the low light even with flash assistance. A slightly blurry photo is better then no photo though,)<br /></p><p>First Steve gave his customary welcome...</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRj286ub8N28Rq1suSelkc_fK8tcKbkTL3Vn9AMUXj8jNjZtZC3KLNK4XquVCBnPPgkXfTvUeEZqC394cW0jJA3lfzj1n-UjF7gv-DEnTxBA492wUXcrnzVI_BJ4rO00n6-CKEDKuUOiD76Id1XlA0GwZc5ynNU2mEBbW4xEXqOxSipLIL8E6SnZKXxbQ/s3888/01a.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2592" data-original-width="3888" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRj286ub8N28Rq1suSelkc_fK8tcKbkTL3Vn9AMUXj8jNjZtZC3KLNK4XquVCBnPPgkXfTvUeEZqC394cW0jJA3lfzj1n-UjF7gv-DEnTxBA492wUXcrnzVI_BJ4rO00n6-CKEDKuUOiD76Id1XlA0GwZc5ynNU2mEBbW4xEXqOxSipLIL8E6SnZKXxbQ/w640-h426/01a.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p>...and then a team photo for absent friends.<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJzDKHcxIFdnRAGVBqZwP4r6rt5WmHrU22xZSMoRnEb9FQHSCKkDUb3G0cmd5C1yL5MWO8gqSzDCVFAgEvtXOuh4peuce4_WXV3fyPqI4PcZl1yXNa4eVcEu46gLE2jQNXGx9CVVm8lI5tWQB7_ag9WjgAObJFqRxdvK_N2-g5JPD4sn6tVvADPkW9lmQ/s3888/01b.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2592" data-original-width="3888" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJzDKHcxIFdnRAGVBqZwP4r6rt5WmHrU22xZSMoRnEb9FQHSCKkDUb3G0cmd5C1yL5MWO8gqSzDCVFAgEvtXOuh4peuce4_WXV3fyPqI4PcZl1yXNa4eVcEu46gLE2jQNXGx9CVVm8lI5tWQB7_ag9WjgAObJFqRxdvK_N2-g5JPD4sn6tVvADPkW9lmQ/w640-h426/01b.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p>First to go was Steve (no. 2)<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_M-2AW2ptEEukWJ7J7reoaLGVrGZIxxo2reFsq0E2AW3NeRke3-gszf9rSLnR33uT2bzzhyZkWp9uDmuEzW692p8yAhFaD4v5-teH4MlKSS9MdCyuraInJtISGpeL7r1N7LRiPeJeVhrg9kLcln4FAtvAOxiTR8oJLlZefrEEF8oBMYsuRQmPVz2VCQ8/s3888/02a.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2592" data-original-width="3888" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_M-2AW2ptEEukWJ7J7reoaLGVrGZIxxo2reFsq0E2AW3NeRke3-gszf9rSLnR33uT2bzzhyZkWp9uDmuEzW692p8yAhFaD4v5-teH4MlKSS9MdCyuraInJtISGpeL7r1N7LRiPeJeVhrg9kLcln4FAtvAOxiTR8oJLlZefrEEF8oBMYsuRQmPVz2VCQ8/w640-h426/02a.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p>Steve was using his recently built speakers (<a href="https://www.audio-talk.co.uk/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=7096&start=165" target="_blank">discussed here from around post 169</a>). The system comprised an Innuos ZEN music server, a Nadja preamp with some DSP, a 6 channel power amp. The speakers have a Beyma TP-150 AMT up top with horn built in to the speaker cabinet, a Beyma 12P80MD midrange (running between 70Hz and 1300Hz with a little DSP help), and two Seas Elroy subwoofers.<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmzrolori7RbvVg9t0bDfWrsvenfzqSQlXEMxaAuqZ5X7piN2lM5qduIF48f4EnkRh-dWvaHAOLl5XMMgFsSwaGFWjkpgs8f_2Lvw-nw_OTftiC3mjG9JYptyErgVTETDuPR48thg9uThrXsQRmCNIdKz_hEtzyOHt_MlSLx7Y4mcf444y0fF1N1sinV0/s3888/02b.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2592" data-original-width="3888" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmzrolori7RbvVg9t0bDfWrsvenfzqSQlXEMxaAuqZ5X7piN2lM5qduIF48f4EnkRh-dWvaHAOLl5XMMgFsSwaGFWjkpgs8f_2Lvw-nw_OTftiC3mjG9JYptyErgVTETDuPR48thg9uThrXsQRmCNIdKz_hEtzyOHt_MlSLx7Y4mcf444y0fF1N1sinV0/w640-h426/02b.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjg5606e4g1gYkx_4pFM5H7fM7fA7OrqIHZWaygRIFLJ0mlg_NPAdK8vckntzC1TnG-BtstIrAw2pSwRgAupvCXbNmNoade-wo36I7q5k_MZmARyfhplUDjOMY4f_uyo6gcgnSAnA-r84wlc5-pOK71t8IfNrSnaOkHG7kRCAFRRSN7r-onSrZFN178Rl0/s3888/02c.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2592" data-original-width="3888" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjg5606e4g1gYkx_4pFM5H7fM7fA7OrqIHZWaygRIFLJ0mlg_NPAdK8vckntzC1TnG-BtstIrAw2pSwRgAupvCXbNmNoade-wo36I7q5k_MZmARyfhplUDjOMY4f_uyo6gcgnSAnA-r84wlc5-pOK71t8IfNrSnaOkHG7kRCAFRRSN7r-onSrZFN178Rl0/w640-h426/02c.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6yS6pD2Wjy0kFt0_YaX3fdHjYB0nJsMYOoaA8tMQlVTLD1JD1hZ0IB4IhtNGnTuHZ-KwFjT8geZMWVMd-lNwE-ibqapmTDPMw19XZZfV_1OEfzsJVOVOpJc4_-jor2qCZJgQD9KMcC46SXhSp39pc-JzhcsrrgMBZ0Mhp42U8PylXSfEaJg_v77roHkA/s3888/02d.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3888" data-original-width="2592" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6yS6pD2Wjy0kFt0_YaX3fdHjYB0nJsMYOoaA8tMQlVTLD1JD1hZ0IB4IhtNGnTuHZ-KwFjT8geZMWVMd-lNwE-ibqapmTDPMw19XZZfV_1OEfzsJVOVOpJc4_-jor2qCZJgQD9KMcC46SXhSp39pc-JzhcsrrgMBZ0Mhp42U8PylXSfEaJg_v77roHkA/w426-h640/02d.JPG" width="426" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvSOky9Oei9iGA_OKjftbJLBVOYygA80OxYYNbtzhjKI4PbILel6UeTJi0SpZqebhCnlvGri9Q_s3iBOIyMqqo2ggguVH3aidclceqhXcsOhd2ivtehQIwMUcrKN9Q3cF7vlnlODJLTyHucKEZ3I9zPYHBEjn8-rRF4srFcHJovWdTfHzP4i08zAK9Dm4/s3888/02e.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3888" data-original-width="2592" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvSOky9Oei9iGA_OKjftbJLBVOYygA80OxYYNbtzhjKI4PbILel6UeTJi0SpZqebhCnlvGri9Q_s3iBOIyMqqo2ggguVH3aidclceqhXcsOhd2ivtehQIwMUcrKN9Q3cF7vlnlODJLTyHucKEZ3I9zPYHBEjn8-rRF4srFcHJovWdTfHzP4i08zAK9Dm4/w426-h640/02e.JPG" width="426" /></a></div><p>I think these were Steve's too, though I didn't hear them</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnuIVFme_SApRVzqGyOzAgnDxPRlPSrFqI2km_gOOIOxgL6fpqmbu9wyQVdNNDemeNS_ilW8T09EEc9R7PL6eeOo_NgHLcoXw5u_UqOHF4cL2r-wpweKhQvMvHZ_i-Gc-ut8bukyFNyX0ZsSLq8gH6WFfLb_s9r4EnzqF_hyphenhyphenoAg6oGMsiLyLs6AMP3GQU/s3888/02f.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2592" data-original-width="3888" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnuIVFme_SApRVzqGyOzAgnDxPRlPSrFqI2km_gOOIOxgL6fpqmbu9wyQVdNNDemeNS_ilW8T09EEc9R7PL6eeOo_NgHLcoXw5u_UqOHF4cL2r-wpweKhQvMvHZ_i-Gc-ut8bukyFNyX0ZsSLq8gH6WFfLb_s9r4EnzqF_hyphenhyphenoAg6oGMsiLyLs6AMP3GQU/w640-h426/02f.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8IRUEfOUfQy-D8RZcURhFluSH8GvDfz7gKGsqXkG6W2H0Mp80aX7HxKK_lwJwz4qWZquvZfl5SXdjTHsz9D1wgRa6JQ6SBPE2W8b2Y99FkQNLBb8pblkOyarmbLiK6JYOtH-2WtyDQkSWvIguBbwMfU6VFJ5hB1hJWNiNX2JhxzYZRp_4CBy4CmU_mSc/s3888/02g.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2592" data-original-width="3888" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8IRUEfOUfQy-D8RZcURhFluSH8GvDfz7gKGsqXkG6W2H0Mp80aX7HxKK_lwJwz4qWZquvZfl5SXdjTHsz9D1wgRa6JQ6SBPE2W8b2Y99FkQNLBb8pblkOyarmbLiK6JYOtH-2WtyDQkSWvIguBbwMfU6VFJ5hB1hJWNiNX2JhxzYZRp_4CBy4CmU_mSc/w640-h426/02g.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p>Next was Chris who had put the speakers together that morning at home, pretty impressive really.<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA4Pvh0SQhPhLfcD6oVPpMwkRLFbaF80T1gSrswCdlGp2XrsXePibBnl1PeL8DQzx9kDeGegfsH7JYJM1hzfC921f8UqR1gMg4vhHYip_d6F-AJOWsqwB3ux2wCnFmfpfdZA5l-LXAFL4AkND_75G6BV4EIHpMsnlTrABMxELl8hQIswuSyh5GEF3od_k/s3888/03a.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2592" data-original-width="3888" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA4Pvh0SQhPhLfcD6oVPpMwkRLFbaF80T1gSrswCdlGp2XrsXePibBnl1PeL8DQzx9kDeGegfsH7JYJM1hzfC921f8UqR1gMg4vhHYip_d6F-AJOWsqwB3ux2wCnFmfpfdZA5l-LXAFL4AkND_75G6BV4EIHpMsnlTrABMxELl8hQIswuSyh5GEF3od_k/w640-h426/03a.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p>The amp was a Powersoft digital amp which has DSP, the source was a laptop running Dante (used in PA work a lot apparently)<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxn6lkpuC4zCAuLIneKbY2QI_Lq8UHVZnwh0q8_a5aVsMh1JXFbPapmaOzrB6FC7yrYDxr0lZXh5ArTWaGW2yh_2rTY_bXj0PzR_LkZWKZlEFtH-ylgBdLp8NfnO0N7tJFmNUXCJKLjMZAeG0d2rGjE8UMhKU-1ftdyA-kagCsIyKgyALUORpz88FWzxo/s3888/03b.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2592" data-original-width="3888" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxn6lkpuC4zCAuLIneKbY2QI_Lq8UHVZnwh0q8_a5aVsMh1JXFbPapmaOzrB6FC7yrYDxr0lZXh5ArTWaGW2yh_2rTY_bXj0PzR_LkZWKZlEFtH-ylgBdLp8NfnO0N7tJFmNUXCJKLjMZAeG0d2rGjE8UMhKU-1ftdyA-kagCsIyKgyALUORpz88FWzxo/w640-h426/03b.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFBtn67ZDKi55_H3EluTR2o74Q2Dsty7hDr5s9MAtj3apbrpDWaMbcRX7KUJaoExgis42tFee4F5D1l9l-UuzWFosZ9iJc5-171bZEC92mMbN0XAdXJl_IGNRWaWmhYFFWAyhJqwJ8VS6fkYXRiMBJoOqAiMFbTPeRFi8kYA8m9vZExlg65DWUjnOeyEU/s3888/03c.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2592" data-original-width="3888" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFBtn67ZDKi55_H3EluTR2o74Q2Dsty7hDr5s9MAtj3apbrpDWaMbcRX7KUJaoExgis42tFee4F5D1l9l-UuzWFosZ9iJc5-171bZEC92mMbN0XAdXJl_IGNRWaWmhYFFWAyhJqwJ8VS6fkYXRiMBJoOqAiMFbTPeRFi8kYA8m9vZExlg65DWUjnOeyEU/w640-h426/03c.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p>The subs were Chris' usual PA-duty speakers - Faital Pro 18XL1800 (I think) in a sealed cabinet, The compression driver behind the horn was a BMS 4592. The horn itself Chris had got cheap and he wasn't too impressed with it. He found lagging the outside with bitumen type car damping panels and the throat with a bit of polyfil tidied things up somewhat.<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJzsTH-boHbnqDt63Riy2lvc2xv2YryXsnnXiDXfdMdpHmL4uWAk_hlOA-oFLrACGOBw8vwLZvz6y46-7QNA_39VoqEIyiXY-KZBbcz1CbjVquei97XvuNFS-c8kfXcDqot3ArhZmQPO8sOFMbpeHj0NcDxFPPpPB3gBS6nWKLTQ2m-qkpy4QuVnP3J48/s3888/03d.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3888" data-original-width="2592" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJzsTH-boHbnqDt63Riy2lvc2xv2YryXsnnXiDXfdMdpHmL4uWAk_hlOA-oFLrACGOBw8vwLZvz6y46-7QNA_39VoqEIyiXY-KZBbcz1CbjVquei97XvuNFS-c8kfXcDqot3ArhZmQPO8sOFMbpeHj0NcDxFPPpPB3gBS6nWKLTQ2m-qkpy4QuVnP3J48/w426-h640/03d.JPG" width="426" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0gk30ROMcNzMVngX_KCFi4_8q4XsvMHi5tq0k8cS6J35aC4OKF4o-q6FdnlGE-9wfuoeftTQVowCNOlb_Ok1Zl1tHTPcGxtEUtjk8Zg0hJ7NoTOFMP9s6g2w8EM7_FCxv3fkAWDgtC5fqDpEwtexer4sUIatmwDksvRaVWIaJjM-nwl_3g3_axdtfn24/s3888/03e.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3888" data-original-width="2592" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0gk30ROMcNzMVngX_KCFi4_8q4XsvMHi5tq0k8cS6J35aC4OKF4o-q6FdnlGE-9wfuoeftTQVowCNOlb_Ok1Zl1tHTPcGxtEUtjk8Zg0hJ7NoTOFMP9s6g2w8EM7_FCxv3fkAWDgtC5fqDpEwtexer4sUIatmwDksvRaVWIaJjM-nwl_3g3_axdtfn24/w426-h640/03e.JPG" width="426" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB8cOOOIka_HaXWp_E5Z04r39XAuPEubqGSqMCkZbGiaefvQ8fTUaYh0qqDsMidYAuwfZK1QXBS_eazIHO2chUeMnRRSyZpFnk7VpJm9f3wfIhvyO42w4Ko0meN1saCFgQ6B9AUd1xmmL5aL992BHX2fpmEhHccGgPnL4aznAXx8SGp40ZhVnglOMajQI/s3888/03f.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2592" data-original-width="3888" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB8cOOOIka_HaXWp_E5Z04r39XAuPEubqGSqMCkZbGiaefvQ8fTUaYh0qqDsMidYAuwfZK1QXBS_eazIHO2chUeMnRRSyZpFnk7VpJm9f3wfIhvyO42w4Ko0meN1saCFgQ6B9AUd1xmmL5aL992BHX2fpmEhHccGgPnL4aznAXx8SGp40ZhVnglOMajQI/w640-h426/03f.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p>Mike followed Chris with his EL84 PP amp and old speakers from his dad's old music centre with a replacement 4" full range driver and tweeter.</p><p>Music played was:</p><p><span> </span>BØRNS – 10,000 Emerald Pools</p><p><span> </span>Sandy Denny & Thea Gilmore – Sailor</p><p><span> </span>Jay Dee – Strange Funky Games And Things</p><p><span> </span>808 State – Spanish Ice</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMr1X0VymVnGW85gKfikzc0qjHhjnW18A9AQMot5wjAxuVJ9WPIz-3-CeGXkny1XLsgyO2l8tVsy61bqV27d6QrpBEwtNh0dKGUNBAwq9JJdc5iyp0sXJkmXoRNP41DBA93f2ZVQzcJt12Sinq2oU3CHHb1QGihomdBjg-AdZVn_kpkT0lcC1rSdChupg/s3888/04a.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2592" data-original-width="3888" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMr1X0VymVnGW85gKfikzc0qjHhjnW18A9AQMot5wjAxuVJ9WPIz-3-CeGXkny1XLsgyO2l8tVsy61bqV27d6QrpBEwtNh0dKGUNBAwq9JJdc5iyp0sXJkmXoRNP41DBA93f2ZVQzcJt12Sinq2oU3CHHb1QGihomdBjg-AdZVn_kpkT0lcC1rSdChupg/w640-h426/04a.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p>EL84 amp <a href="https://www.audio-talk.co.uk/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=8760" target="_blank">build thread here</a><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVb1080yYO4Bq76nmZl-2rFNFhi-gEXtSwKashd_lMCvpeMdvoz0kF3GgQkp00cNKq1NhucK79hyMFFVycpbN1Ez1hpi8xB6RtSOWnajI17WHf4R78qJ27nOc7NraOkoo6ybhpA7KBJIXVNMGCdSU47R6TLEVfq7t9M5X4RdzqBVhyRNDSImgGQqGIGzU/s3888/04b.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2592" data-original-width="3888" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVb1080yYO4Bq76nmZl-2rFNFhi-gEXtSwKashd_lMCvpeMdvoz0kF3GgQkp00cNKq1NhucK79hyMFFVycpbN1Ez1hpi8xB6RtSOWnajI17WHf4R78qJ27nOc7NraOkoo6ybhpA7KBJIXVNMGCdSU47R6TLEVfq7t9M5X4RdzqBVhyRNDSImgGQqGIGzU/w640-h426/04b.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGFMgIHMP5Zm7Sql4nQtLr1g29jiH6-R_d16adJLjBDsuvO7t4Jalz_x09SxsBjHEYUwfUwqAk_BMHTB9TjqO9OISelSxSbvD2XuP0Zn0ccM64MHTZcKSdOw-xePTKiChp8ZRDBTBXPrmQP3lPHs4JIwszIDz0LEAkF-2yBrMtu-XlxyhLmmLYTsBbySA/s3888/04c.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2592" data-original-width="3888" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGFMgIHMP5Zm7Sql4nQtLr1g29jiH6-R_d16adJLjBDsuvO7t4Jalz_x09SxsBjHEYUwfUwqAk_BMHTB9TjqO9OISelSxSbvD2XuP0Zn0ccM64MHTZcKSdOw-xePTKiChp8ZRDBTBXPrmQP3lPHs4JIwszIDz0LEAkF-2yBrMtu-XlxyhLmmLYTsBbySA/w640-h426/04c.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p>Tony then used Mike's amp and speakers with his RTZ DSD source which comprised his LnP Signature CDPro2 CD player he'd made some years ago, the S/PDIF was passed to his much modified <a href="https://www.audio-talk.co.uk/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=8064" target="_blank">Transporter</a> which he was using to take I2S to the <a href="https://www.audio-talk.co.uk/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=8633" target="_blank">RTZ DAC</a><br /></p><p>Music played was from The Alien Jams by Ajja & Cosmosis</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4EwUBIeKBWyJGGbdGUr5rUj5jASkX1UodymW02oMuPyb2_ajmHdAQNmqq_LnZwCl9-kvuR4l0lI3EA6pgxLxolbDIaU5XZv4OeQG8V_D_a8d_23wl9rCTT8ZdMM2Xq8ad-DQc_lb0lq7EXAufrkMePTisTar1PBYgpQoz_DZcnDG-tJlckur3l9gEqv8/s3888/05a.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2592" data-original-width="3888" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4EwUBIeKBWyJGGbdGUr5rUj5jASkX1UodymW02oMuPyb2_ajmHdAQNmqq_LnZwCl9-kvuR4l0lI3EA6pgxLxolbDIaU5XZv4OeQG8V_D_a8d_23wl9rCTT8ZdMM2Xq8ad-DQc_lb0lq7EXAufrkMePTisTar1PBYgpQoz_DZcnDG-tJlckur3l9gEqv8/w640-h426/05a.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS19XNEfksj-FVY9SBvizyNjjPAdZevmY40YvIHOM62XUlCZQZFeMM21NH726o0iP1ZNawWvI8mHEeej95N2fHR3kKHMU0XzkL7dHx34nP6cPOxTo8nnm4rkEGJN3UiQv0v1v2ZQ-sGTN4tT2St-GouEjb3pbUYamSfhp28-fiW_88rsKvxpPHGMw4PX4/s3888/05b.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2592" data-original-width="3888" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS19XNEfksj-FVY9SBvizyNjjPAdZevmY40YvIHOM62XUlCZQZFeMM21NH726o0iP1ZNawWvI8mHEeej95N2fHR3kKHMU0XzkL7dHx34nP6cPOxTo8nnm4rkEGJN3UiQv0v1v2ZQ-sGTN4tT2St-GouEjb3pbUYamSfhp28-fiW_88rsKvxpPHGMw4PX4/w640-h426/05b.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie6W1gcNeS_MirLI54Dix8mqYd7zsQoj2gAI6qGUNrIFVJJqHwbpsrAPW-Ep8XEwpuDqyzf_J203Vt_F6mGbuVgFFp7qGMXn8A5BB8OIKqUK3MJnod4DGYr_qrCkKsALupsuGXlwxIccdzAn1YVlaaP51SsTQ_WbNGfjdbx8nO4Iafi0-cRn7_YczgnMg/s3888/05c.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2592" data-original-width="3888" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie6W1gcNeS_MirLI54Dix8mqYd7zsQoj2gAI6qGUNrIFVJJqHwbpsrAPW-Ep8XEwpuDqyzf_J203Vt_F6mGbuVgFFp7qGMXn8A5BB8OIKqUK3MJnod4DGYr_qrCkKsALupsuGXlwxIccdzAn1YVlaaP51SsTQ_WbNGfjdbx8nO4Iafi0-cRn7_YczgnMg/w640-h426/05c.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p>And a very ropey shot of the inside<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHxWmoDrzNSmDTsw2OjDk0wXmK1etSQuyo0PXGaEA7oCwZJGCiAdKWqiS7qreTvO3Mu5B3-468WG_Y0Pl-KFlMf8T648GB1Ri-YL6lB9RRb8-7qTPC3grUc69W3BPaXVvqRJ7OygSs_7aYDn2tsNDLT1v_skfF7nLT63YoXSNOB7t9RRCSMZWzcnSctAk/s3888/05d.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2592" data-original-width="3888" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHxWmoDrzNSmDTsw2OjDk0wXmK1etSQuyo0PXGaEA7oCwZJGCiAdKWqiS7qreTvO3Mu5B3-468WG_Y0Pl-KFlMf8T648GB1Ri-YL6lB9RRb8-7qTPC3grUc69W3BPaXVvqRJ7OygSs_7aYDn2tsNDLT1v_skfF7nLT63YoXSNOB7t9RRCSMZWzcnSctAk/w640-h426/05d.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p>Next was Steve (no. 1) with PX25 SET and speakers comprising Beyma TP-150 AMTs, Fane 12"s and Fane 18"s<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcfC98IxInGzJ64JmuW7BpJURmW-eegUwVW4xaF3_8ntY76G-Vue2lS6sSuqqqcvqqtyINBRt6DHfpGnz4Aja3xqcW_C7Dsic973WSGyAx3EvXYHLu_OBkeudoH78oUf-QwkSYts-ad7K9Mn08MYT0BsIa28Mtl3MAtYFHtBQF54ID5DLoio7rMq4-s4I/s3888/06a.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2592" data-original-width="3888" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcfC98IxInGzJ64JmuW7BpJURmW-eegUwVW4xaF3_8ntY76G-Vue2lS6sSuqqqcvqqtyINBRt6DHfpGnz4Aja3xqcW_C7Dsic973WSGyAx3EvXYHLu_OBkeudoH78oUf-QwkSYts-ad7K9Mn08MYT0BsIa28Mtl3MAtYFHtBQF54ID5DLoio7rMq4-s4I/w640-h426/06a.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-Z9wowGozAE_N29zUOcN_73BRoj3lUeEk83uUaO0AJr0hRAbV_1Df9ponFW80IWz0g61XiE-dgwSgUFOyq8qozFLmusK1RolCkhLlKljCfvuUVbCyHamcavoS5wpn9a1uwZ-McM3Odt_kulF8G_22HDHZ5SO-PhRv18IRb5r01aVK-JkykavTNz5pc9Y/s3888/06b.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2592" data-original-width="3888" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-Z9wowGozAE_N29zUOcN_73BRoj3lUeEk83uUaO0AJr0hRAbV_1Df9ponFW80IWz0g61XiE-dgwSgUFOyq8qozFLmusK1RolCkhLlKljCfvuUVbCyHamcavoS5wpn9a1uwZ-McM3Odt_kulF8G_22HDHZ5SO-PhRv18IRb5r01aVK-JkykavTNz5pc9Y/w640-h426/06b.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0855lgrFMf3Q9HLd8tdGdJ9pJ90Lb_s9T6F5ZVFOhpHIbmLyW6KLcx89fdnkjRM2t5SsXv99Pi8IiqbU9WtPMWVkpsZmhNW4EfpiEHolOQZYSqTRheuDNsUY1qkwI6OlkqEjjs8VbXLZyCiC-Qh7n7YWmSl4eLwI2V-J0fajWN0oI6gxZr0F_iCXeplU/s3888/06c.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2592" data-original-width="3888" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0855lgrFMf3Q9HLd8tdGdJ9pJ90Lb_s9T6F5ZVFOhpHIbmLyW6KLcx89fdnkjRM2t5SsXv99Pi8IiqbU9WtPMWVkpsZmhNW4EfpiEHolOQZYSqTRheuDNsUY1qkwI6OlkqEjjs8VbXLZyCiC-Qh7n7YWmSl4eLwI2V-J0fajWN0oI6gxZr0F_iCXeplU/w640-h426/06c.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiom0S5kQ7F0nZIpRtC4OxBTB8WvKppGOvcn20kHbxLkbhAlJqLvDTcta22kiubtTkUQq0VROGWlwZfD_2LHb_xkXqgD1Ge5KrQ6ehPh6jtN_5FLMOPSTWOmi_GyhfrGZ4b0XtYocIdmmKmLSfVhhEBplkjyikjWz2t7lwORGNy7auZnPLOcN2GcgsRZKY/s3888/06d.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2592" data-original-width="3888" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiom0S5kQ7F0nZIpRtC4OxBTB8WvKppGOvcn20kHbxLkbhAlJqLvDTcta22kiubtTkUQq0VROGWlwZfD_2LHb_xkXqgD1Ge5KrQ6ehPh6jtN_5FLMOPSTWOmi_GyhfrGZ4b0XtYocIdmmKmLSfVhhEBplkjyikjWz2t7lwORGNy7auZnPLOcN2GcgsRZKY/w640-h426/06d.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p>The next double act was Nick and Dave. Nick had brought the latest incarnation of the turntable he's been working on for some years, now with super heavy delrin-skinned platter. Amp was a Luxman, and Dave didn't want to use the speakers he'd brought so they used Steve's.<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitlFhhn8XeaXCbCgfhNNM4KkJwCAg6LuqDEVfHey5hXu296k5sWP76jwws__sjGtnW6Wiw1nqB7MlOKRtH5JGao7w-D52fgVWi_nBTmkwQsAObAxlPT30eOlWpe2j9wGSviZsNAcCxojpma-xnSCti2NgbXGn5OewuN1NAQIrGtOovUYxMs0yu6p3k13o/s3888/07a.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2592" data-original-width="3888" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitlFhhn8XeaXCbCgfhNNM4KkJwCAg6LuqDEVfHey5hXu296k5sWP76jwws__sjGtnW6Wiw1nqB7MlOKRtH5JGao7w-D52fgVWi_nBTmkwQsAObAxlPT30eOlWpe2j9wGSviZsNAcCxojpma-xnSCti2NgbXGn5OewuN1NAQIrGtOovUYxMs0yu6p3k13o/w640-h426/07a.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_zhjvlA5Ru2VRJCfdpfSIKelmD0wnZxqSgmza1DrTNm_pC8hOhZCGkVDGeHCcNl7Q3lPNTD33X6S6HRXLb1LzrWxiAv4aDDjfc95bkQ21B08p64bzo4mHGaGp08yvJuwhEdjAb-ViV9NRSOFCyQVcTMhM5q1YE8FY6b661Pcf9kIh1-0IBNmUfhbkyBQ/s3888/07b.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2592" data-original-width="3888" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_zhjvlA5Ru2VRJCfdpfSIKelmD0wnZxqSgmza1DrTNm_pC8hOhZCGkVDGeHCcNl7Q3lPNTD33X6S6HRXLb1LzrWxiAv4aDDjfc95bkQ21B08p64bzo4mHGaGp08yvJuwhEdjAb-ViV9NRSOFCyQVcTMhM5q1YE8FY6b661Pcf9kIh1-0IBNmUfhbkyBQ/w640-h426/07b.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi43nbKxVdq9k8FnWRHtCwl0WIx22Ciyqsqev_l5O29naOozMTpo8bFyFwLFhtdm2AZ8L8ffhJmDub2bXuTKo8vott0ppFcyX4eQZogtGa8rWmISKGDTqtjeXoh_-teHOwV-JsyUWm-KXXMtfP-2e1p7qS_Oqx4mbIyAbUq_OxniNwQ3SEoF2jylrEroLA/s3888/07c.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2592" data-original-width="3888" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi43nbKxVdq9k8FnWRHtCwl0WIx22Ciyqsqev_l5O29naOozMTpo8bFyFwLFhtdm2AZ8L8ffhJmDub2bXuTKo8vott0ppFcyX4eQZogtGa8rWmISKGDTqtjeXoh_-teHOwV-JsyUWm-KXXMtfP-2e1p7qS_Oqx4mbIyAbUq_OxniNwQ3SEoF2jylrEroLA/w640-h426/07c.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p>An Ortofon arm and Denon DL-103R cartridge<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgE9Az2DALqqH2GLMKIo4Phz6KcMP6vyCo4GhLW68OpaEKxRT-LT-uscmpE_roLxHWYhyphenhypheniLRapGnzxC-lp8BAs3QUurHI61ynJiCKIQi1yeixk5km3Z0nWqvC2TH80g1J9aaBpMiFcZ7BAPlEkxQuJUqc-aijpdoOKIkemkdITTWwGxTGhLWJyCIpihWDk/s3888/07d.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2592" data-original-width="3888" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgE9Az2DALqqH2GLMKIo4Phz6KcMP6vyCo4GhLW68OpaEKxRT-LT-uscmpE_roLxHWYhyphenhypheniLRapGnzxC-lp8BAs3QUurHI61ynJiCKIQi1yeixk5km3Z0nWqvC2TH80g1J9aaBpMiFcZ7BAPlEkxQuJUqc-aijpdoOKIkemkdITTWwGxTGhLWJyCIpihWDk/w640-h426/07d.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuRyE-AhA4vgaV0jLVbi8CcLu_ar7NEFQpf6DIJHFC0ksAlB2qxZyGgvs4YkF8nSFhrLtNNmPnok2juf5NgTK3XI8hyXvgvWohYyZBI_mMuG4bjeeTDpj_3tN9V6lsFJ_qBm1WS0COX9DE0wxqxIQCM_TYlQjn7suO1J3cTf36KligYz0QBVZ5Ye1qMXo/s3888/07e.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2592" data-original-width="3888" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuRyE-AhA4vgaV0jLVbi8CcLu_ar7NEFQpf6DIJHFC0ksAlB2qxZyGgvs4YkF8nSFhrLtNNmPnok2juf5NgTK3XI8hyXvgvWohYyZBI_mMuG4bjeeTDpj_3tN9V6lsFJ_qBm1WS0COX9DE0wxqxIQCM_TYlQjn7suO1J3cTf36KligYz0QBVZ5Ye1qMXo/w640-h426/07e.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p>1 o'clock brought the lunch interval, after which play resumed with Ray. Ray had travelled up some distance that morning but had brought his small office system with him. A <a href="https://www.audio-talk.co.uk/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=8324" target="_blank">25W chip amp</a> from abraxalito on DIYAudio and a <a href="https://www.audio-talk.co.uk/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?p=170120#p170120" target="_blank">Noir headphone amp</a> for a touch more gain - the speakers, Ariston, £5 from a carboot, needed a little extra help in this room. This is the only decent photo I got. (The middle box was a <a href="https://www.audio-talk.co.uk/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?p=185510#p185510" target="_blank">passive pre with Muses volume</a>, not used as maximum gain was required.<br /></p><p>Music played was;</p><p><span> </span>Peter Gabriel - 'Rhythm of the Heat' from the album 'New Blood'</p><p><span> </span>Christine and the Queens - 'Tilted' from the album 'Chaleur Humaine'</p><p><span> </span>Be-Bop Deluxe - 'Adventures in a Yorkshire Landscape' from the album 'Axe Victim'</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjABvN7efot2bP0rYclICxfMuUOYfyBjYSrUDKrznW0Rm0nHJF2919wcUkdLBSrROm0P0OHigJc_lFSW9vxl-CpidW8Ox2jCz1oXjwAFYqtrmMZufr69GY0oqwR2GbFvVtKkSIUgVEq3Cgf9H2tMDC_oKpyknjlbXd_ybq7u8vpNi8FQIcGUCUJ_XWFqlY/s3888/08a.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2592" data-original-width="3888" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjABvN7efot2bP0rYclICxfMuUOYfyBjYSrUDKrznW0Rm0nHJF2919wcUkdLBSrROm0P0OHigJc_lFSW9vxl-CpidW8Ox2jCz1oXjwAFYqtrmMZufr69GY0oqwR2GbFvVtKkSIUgVEq3Cgf9H2tMDC_oKpyknjlbXd_ybq7u8vpNi8FQIcGUCUJ_XWFqlY/w640-h426/08a.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p>Chris had another go, this time with his small Fostex speakers and large Crown amp<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiE02C0lTKqWHIooFwbo9aCZ54b9xbtCxFwxAjwK1Df8_br3_5xx_Km_QFSvdISFcLmldhsVZaNLbHB3wCQkWeDvnaEPjfzxVF53bqD67HLU7cVGi2gy45ZOZYqiLelr9tcQFND9RBj-a14NqcAThEkQyGfUyy-hgfgkZw9EyOriDcBmSSR5GewoT0IaSQ/s3888/09a.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2592" data-original-width="3888" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiE02C0lTKqWHIooFwbo9aCZ54b9xbtCxFwxAjwK1Df8_br3_5xx_Km_QFSvdISFcLmldhsVZaNLbHB3wCQkWeDvnaEPjfzxVF53bqD67HLU7cVGi2gy45ZOZYqiLelr9tcQFND9RBj-a14NqcAThEkQyGfUyy-hgfgkZw9EyOriDcBmSSR5GewoT0IaSQ/w640-h426/09a.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfrSxG9JDUwFv3z2CdbgoIx-3ydm-zmrbcy8QwiUoHZoVSggipmmGikwGXsGv_220VLocLGKOdNhLdctjSjnxuwain_T9YeKxeH2u-hHb7qweh9wAn1DrXyNj-JMS78Wn2C54jK1UI_-ksGSHxqJlcOxTHtrX34ZMEi-P60iDB-w1QqjjAWlO8IDCXhS4/s3888/09b.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3888" data-original-width="2592" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfrSxG9JDUwFv3z2CdbgoIx-3ydm-zmrbcy8QwiUoHZoVSggipmmGikwGXsGv_220VLocLGKOdNhLdctjSjnxuwain_T9YeKxeH2u-hHb7qweh9wAn1DrXyNj-JMS78Wn2C54jK1UI_-ksGSHxqJlcOxTHtrX34ZMEi-P60iDB-w1QqjjAWlO8IDCXhS4/w426-h640/09b.JPG" width="426" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtQbLxWYq81n-jfC4RTU49FDXqB7KaK4rZzuHowGGtvDgEriqZ0FV5oyC1VSGbZL8vd15nh029KOmtUm4oSL4en8tzkuqo5uize-YqB2-lzjkvAmGzSWw07-BQf5xoe00GzSoTsV7r9XIZ8pyTsryxc4BUJbbWv6vxxmPeLt6Srk4DJ72ghhZ9vfAmL_I/s3888/09c.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2592" data-original-width="3888" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtQbLxWYq81n-jfC4RTU49FDXqB7KaK4rZzuHowGGtvDgEriqZ0FV5oyC1VSGbZL8vd15nh029KOmtUm4oSL4en8tzkuqo5uize-YqB2-lzjkvAmGzSWw07-BQf5xoe00GzSoTsV7r9XIZ8pyTsryxc4BUJbbWv6vxxmPeLt6Srk4DJ72ghhZ9vfAmL_I/w640-h426/09c.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaH19xpTPCpDxGTXk9x6NxdZMk85onqRXaAsNzjTBDCwVL_FDV5mbJY_bUXNAj1PcAuhS_XvFpVK7NJ2W_dvPaFwepRN6kajoAX_KiY2z6wGe7xAMdmDWhNnP5W3wfORvySRMOBe-LkuKBcMJDfyBk9oASCOWs2Z0dY1LVEDY2qW2oMq-D_9wpWp9e4h0/s3888/09d.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3888" data-original-width="2592" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaH19xpTPCpDxGTXk9x6NxdZMk85onqRXaAsNzjTBDCwVL_FDV5mbJY_bUXNAj1PcAuhS_XvFpVK7NJ2W_dvPaFwepRN6kajoAX_KiY2z6wGe7xAMdmDWhNnP5W3wfORvySRMOBe-LkuKBcMJDfyBk9oASCOWs2Z0dY1LVEDY2qW2oMq-D_9wpWp9e4h0/w426-h640/09d.JPG" width="426" /></a></div><p></p><p>Then Mike again with different speakers, BBC LS2s his uncle had given him<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-ic4yUktECKLaV-9ujcOAN381pzW-OoiZNwvdYBufuWV0fE8SIcdAxbdcLZQ-bhnHFkX0KWRtOkjlFOAxLUQ6IeWrfkcJADZPsTOeJIMk2aANA5aedAHDYWy8_c3OvoNGdPmRSyUKlyEFM45_AvO3pvYuL1V9Emlchmm5QNGiQLxSZnCeWl8armoJo0c/s3888/10a.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3888" data-original-width="2592" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-ic4yUktECKLaV-9ujcOAN381pzW-OoiZNwvdYBufuWV0fE8SIcdAxbdcLZQ-bhnHFkX0KWRtOkjlFOAxLUQ6IeWrfkcJADZPsTOeJIMk2aANA5aedAHDYWy8_c3OvoNGdPmRSyUKlyEFM45_AvO3pvYuL1V9Emlchmm5QNGiQLxSZnCeWl8armoJo0c/w426-h640/10a.JPG" width="426" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFboZZRmddRliEQZ5OtuUP7igApa61hDZB48nQTedeaftGmBRXb57FrBCXg_McSR5Ytu4kSMSI-8zYp9nckCFHFqJ7B4MmgCfCilvp9RxDoeTK2Mmg_bLESiegoE837LOD0Dd0BJV_8ykQ46lXmrfI6EvYxqbszIbmhEKo0EC5PoxZuFqDSPXLanuWS7A/s3888/10b.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3888" data-original-width="2592" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFboZZRmddRliEQZ5OtuUP7igApa61hDZB48nQTedeaftGmBRXb57FrBCXg_McSR5Ytu4kSMSI-8zYp9nckCFHFqJ7B4MmgCfCilvp9RxDoeTK2Mmg_bLESiegoE837LOD0Dd0BJV_8ykQ46lXmrfI6EvYxqbszIbmhEKo0EC5PoxZuFqDSPXLanuWS7A/w426-h640/10b.JPG" width="426" /></a></div><p></p><p>And that was the end of my day and I left the rest of the team to play on till stumps. Or beyond. A great day and everything sounded really pretty good. Sure there were flavours but everything worked. Thanks to everyone who made the effort to bring stuff.<br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p>SimonsNewAdventuresInHiFihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18135925051823781254noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1785499288157034309.post-82148067169785887522022-08-26T09:30:00.002-07:002022-08-26T09:30:52.676-07:00Design Of A Single Ended 2A3 Valve Amplifier - Part 2<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEiKu3Nw80DK6ytsUVMPA5glaluh912ncRNDAi6BRvVk_T0NZbZgGenHNxGkTO_ZpITAJMip6Y-tDXU2E25SjeMCszj-fhjHIGcUVFv80qv5B3lK6p1TjC1UMGSGRC5KNpF1FyAn5jd8A/s1600/D3a-2A3+no+components.PNG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="733" data-original-width="698" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEiKu3Nw80DK6ytsUVMPA5glaluh912ncRNDAi6BRvVk_T0NZbZgGenHNxGkTO_ZpITAJMip6Y-tDXU2E25SjeMCszj-fhjHIGcUVFv80qv5B3lK6p1TjC1UMGSGRC5KNpF1FyAn5jd8A/s400/D3a-2A3+no+components.PNG" width="380" /></a></div>
<br />
In <a href="https://simonsnewadventuresinhifi.blogspot.co.uk/2015/05/design-of-single-ended-2a3-valve.html?showComment=1510603129151#c2580495736574168260" target="_blank">part 1</a> we looked at design of the 2A3 output stage of this amplifier, that was a very, very long time ago. Now we'll look at the D3a driver.<br />
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<h2>
The Driver Stage</h2>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgo5SsELK6qwSpQGzBC2Kgi2y2DkPoMIjUGAn5_WVTNnAv70ecW5QsrVKRoXqDtSI740_T4a4WhZUG2RMaSK3w_qzyd_DDUHm9DmN-YQDtuzQrK3gSWmnfr2a6v7ULSEeuh2LDIcP6OJIc/s1600/D3a+no+components.PNG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="547" data-original-width="566" height="386" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgo5SsELK6qwSpQGzBC2Kgi2y2DkPoMIjUGAn5_WVTNnAv70ecW5QsrVKRoXqDtSI740_T4a4WhZUG2RMaSK3w_qzyd_DDUHm9DmN-YQDtuzQrK3gSWmnfr2a6v7ULSEeuh2LDIcP6OJIc/s400/D3a+no+components.PNG" width="400" /></a></div>
<div>
<h4><br /></h4><h4>
Output Stage Recap</h4>
<br /></div>Design of this driver stage is very similar to the output stage, but with slightly different goals. The purpose of the driver is to drive the output valve's grid, so let's have another look at the 2A3 anode characteristic curves to remind ourselves - here's the datasheet graph to which I added the safe operating zone.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYBEyXyWfi02BPLt00nmVKDmdgL0p7hI6MlwgddcO6LOVNIf90WQuXdGIaNLnlN3xvA5sO8aTQNue9Tpw160cLhnMbq1XHNbZyDm1tQSNLlmhhhviGmCmtMlxzgkCjNn3u5-38YWjVvL8/s1600/2A3+annotated+plate+characteristics+working+area.PNG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="695" data-original-width="733" height="604" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYBEyXyWfi02BPLt00nmVKDmdgL0p7hI6MlwgddcO6LOVNIf90WQuXdGIaNLnlN3xvA5sO8aTQNue9Tpw160cLhnMbq1XHNbZyDm1tQSNLlmhhhviGmCmtMlxzgkCjNn3u5-38YWjVvL8/s640/2A3+annotated+plate+characteristics+working+area.PNG" width="640" /></a></div>
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If you remember, our operating point is 250V and 60mA, with a grid bias of -43.5V.<br />
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As this is a class A1 design the 2A3's grid should remain negative at all times (i.e. to the right of the red curve) so for full output the grid swings down from its bias point of -43.5V to 0V (and up to -87V). The driver is a common cathode stage, so the driver needs to swing + and - 43.5V on its anode, which is coupled to the 2A3 grid via a capacitor. Capacitors block DC voltage - we'll talk about this capacitor later.<br />
<br />
<h4>
Driver Stage Considerations</h4><div><br /></div>
So how do we choose the driver? There are a number of considerations but if we want to use a single stage before the 2A3 then ideally we need to swing the + or - 43.5V from a standard 2V RMS input, such as a CD player. 2V RMS equates to 2 x square root of 2 x 2 = 5.66V peak to peak so + and - 2.83V. So in rough terms the driver needs a gain of 43.5 / 2.83 = 15.3. In reality a valve's datasheet amplification factor won't be fully achieved, maybe only in the region of 70%.<br />
<br />
And we perhaps might prefer a little more sensitivity than + or - 2.83V, and + or - 1V gives us plenty of "welly" on the volume control. So let's aim for an overall gain in the region of 40.<br />
<br />
It's not just a question of choosing a valve with the appropriate amplification factor, it has to be able to actually swing those volts too! And ideally we'd like it to have plenty of headroom i.e. some more swing in hand so it's not up against its limits and clip.<br />
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We also want to minimise distortion so might want to aim for areas of the anode curves with equally spaced grid voltage curves. (However, as the amplifier is the result of two stages, both stages have to be considered <b>together as a combined system</b> if we want to fine tune minimum distortion. But that would need some test equipment and is beyond the scope of this blog.)<br />
<br />
And of course we need to obey the safe operating characteristics of the valve.<br />
<br />
<h4>
The D3a</h4>
<br />
So back to the D3a. It's a "special quality" pentode that was used for telecommunications. Here's the <a href="http://frank.pocnet.net/sheets/009/d/D3a.pdf" target="_blank">datasheet</a>. Pentodes are generally newer than triodes (which is somewhat relative these days!) but can make good drivers as they typically have higher gain than triodes. Sometimes too high. But they can be wired as triodes with lower gain, and some think they can sound better this way.<br />
<br />
Not all pentode datasheets contain triode connected info but fortunately the D3a does. Looking at page 3 the triode amplification factor is given as 77, so ~70% is a real world gain of about 50, which is nice. Now let's look at the second graph on page 7 for the average anode characteristics.<br />
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The curves look rather like the 2A3, but the values of voltage and current are very different. That's because this is a signal valve rather than an output valve.<br />
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<h4>
The Operating Point</h4>
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So let's look at the operating point and start with the safe operating requirements, see page 5 of the datasheet. Helpfully the maximum anode power dissipation of 4.5W is already shown on the datasheet graph. In addition we want to stay to the right of the 0V grid line, and not exceed the maximum anode voltage of 220V and maximum anode current of 30mA. So here's the graph again, with the safe operating zone shown.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOsAf3WwzRURkEvVnxDboKIfsyzHv4Ruv781X8q13ISJPy0_V9EYHEiqJiRWM7d5lThbPS4PQGkj6L5LVhnHTaQe_KDCnsNXPxqAkqNIM1zG4sH92TTbroxqIQBbXX3ngWu4tP2J3V76k/s1600/D3a+triode+curves+safe+working+area.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="619" data-original-width="923" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOsAf3WwzRURkEvVnxDboKIfsyzHv4Ruv781X8q13ISJPy0_V9EYHEiqJiRWM7d5lThbPS4PQGkj6L5LVhnHTaQe_KDCnsNXPxqAkqNIM1zG4sH92TTbroxqIQBbXX3ngWu4tP2J3V76k/s640/D3a+triode+curves+safe+working+area.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Now we can choose our operating point. We want to swing 2 x 43.5 = 87V peak to peak on the anode, and we want a nice place on the grid voltage curves with equal spacing to minimise harmonic distortion. But also, unless we're going to have a separate power supply we need to bear in mind the B+ supply voltage that we determined in our output stage design.<br />
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Now if we go back to our 2V RMS input voltage from a CD player, which is 5.66V peak to peak, if we look at the curves above we can't adequately bias our valve for this swing - the grid voltage curves only go as far as -3V. In reality we would need a meatier driver.<br />
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But it's not necessary to swing the full 5.66V - music rarely reaches the full 2V RMS. If we go for 2V peak to peak then the amp will have decent sensitivity. So let's bias the valve to the right of the 1V curve. This does mean of course that there is the potential danger that at full bore the amp could overdrive, but in reality the volume control would never be turned up that high to permit the full 2V RMS swing in a well balanced setup system.<br />
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Now it's an iterative process of looking at operating point and anode loadline. An operating point of 150V and 20mA, which is a grid voltage of approximately -1.38V, looks a decent compromise. You can see I've sketched in the approximate -1.38V line at the operating point.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPe2k6WTyBD4r_9l8p4fQTcHlXYRP-7rpeGX3fSqVL4wC_upW1QGDy9ya6MJj3JsWZBVgMbQlCS88w9c5FN6vyUUUcfPdcb2wJQJ1F27ZMauY0pLhHea9YSgs3EBxxdR4CG0OEUhWkdyw/s1600/D3a+triode+curves+operating+point.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="776" data-original-width="1162" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPe2k6WTyBD4r_9l8p4fQTcHlXYRP-7rpeGX3fSqVL4wC_upW1QGDy9ya6MJj3JsWZBVgMbQlCS88w9c5FN6vyUUUcfPdcb2wJQJ1F27ZMauY0pLhHea9YSgs3EBxxdR4CG0OEUhWkdyw/s640/D3a+triode+curves+operating+point.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<h4>
Loadline and Anode Load</h4>
When we looked at the output stage we went with the datasheet loadline of 2500 ohms, which is approximately 3x the anode resistance. Our choices for a driver are slightly different as the higher the load resistance generally the better as it will tend to reduce distortion. But the higher the load resistance (i.e. the larger value of the anode resistor) the more voltage will be dropped across it, which in turn means the higher the required B+ voltage.<br />
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The datasheet for a triode connected D3a gives the internal resistance as 1900 ohm. If we apply the 3 x rule: 3 x 1900 = 5700 ohms. So we're looking for a resistor of at least 5700 ohms, and ideally we want to use a standard value with suitable rating. So 6800 ohms looks pretty good, and the power dissipated in it will be the current squared x the resistance, so 0.02^2 x 6800 = 2.7W. We derate by 3 x to 5 x, so we actually want a 6800 ohms resistor rated between 8W and 13W, maybe a nice 12W Mills again.<br />
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The loadline is shown in magenta, and the thicker section shows the swing about the operating point - up to a maximum of -2.56V where the maximum allowable anode voltage of 220V occurs. As the grid voltage can swing up from -1.38V to -2.56V (1.18V) it therefore swings down to -1.38 - -1.18 = -0.2V.<br />
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Now if we look at the anode voltages at these points on the grid voltage we can see the anode voltage will swing up to 220V and down to 75V i.e. -75V and +70V from the operating point. Ideally those values would be the same as the difference reflects a little distortion - that's the consequence of unequally spaced grid lines. But a difference of 5V is pretty good in reality.<br />
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If we now think back to our 2A3 we need + and - 43.5V swing on its grid, and the D3a as we have it configured here can swing +70V and -75V, more than actually required. But as most music is recorded with less than 2V RMS, in reality we'll be able to use more of the volume control, without needing a pre stage. And if the music is too loud so the driver stage starts to clip it will sound a little unpleasant and the volume will inevitably be turned down.<br />
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<h4>
Cathode Resistor</h4>
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<br /></div>
Nice and easy, we want to raise the cathode to 1.38V to achieve the correct bias and there will be 20mA through it, so using our friend, ohm's law, R = V / I = 1.38 / 0.02 = 69 ohms. Let's say 68 ohms as a standard value. Power dissipated through the cathode resistor = 0.02^2 x 68 = 0.03W, so we can happily use a half watt rated resistor.<br />
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<b>Cathode Resistor Bypass Capacitor</b><br />
<br />
Right, time for some more maths again. First let's work out the cathode resistance (check back to the 2A3 page for more explanation):<br />
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rk = (ra + Rl) / (mu +1) = (1900 + 6800) / (77 + 1) = 112 ohms<br />
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So R = 1 / ((1 / rk) + (1 / Rk)) = 1 / (1/112 + 1/68) = 1 / (0.0089 + 0.0147) = 42.4 ohms<br />
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As this is a driver stage and earlier in the reproduction chain we should aim for a much lower f-3 frequency than the output stage as once the bass frequencies have been lost they can't be magiced back. 1Hz isn't unusual.<br />
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And therefore C = 1 / (2 x pi x f-3 x R) = 1 / (2 x 3.142 x 1 x 42.4) = 3754uF.<br />
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Which is a big capacitor. But I had some Panasonic 2200uF electrolytics which gives an f-3 of less than 2Hz. Still lots of uF, but not unreasonable.<br />
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As the voltage at the cathode is approximately 1.38V a capacitor rating of 5V is fine.<br />
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<br />
<b>Grid Leak Resistor</b><br />
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The datasheet suggests 500k ohms as a maximum, I went with 100k ohms, 1W is more than adequate.<br />
<br /><br /><b>Grid Stopper and Screen Tie Resistors</b><div><br /></div><div>There are two more resistors that are very important. The first is called a grid stopper and is soldered as close to the valve socket pin for the control grid (G1) as possible. This stops valves oscillating. Higher gain valves, like the D3a have a habit of oscillating which is a bad thing. You might not audibly recognise oscillation but it will affect the sound to some degree. Sometimes it can be present but at very high frequencies, much higher than we can hear, but it can still have an affect on the music. A value somewhere between 300R and 2200R usually does the job. I used 1000R, and half a watt will be adequate.</div><div><br /></div><div>The other resistor ties the screen grid (the middle of the three in a pentode) to the anode. This is what make the valve work like a triode rather than a pentode. 1000R half watt again.<br />
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<b>Capacitor Coupling the Two Stages</b><br />
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Now we have the basic design of the driver stage we need to consider how we couple the driver stage to the output stage. The signal is taken from the anode of the D3a so we know the voltage there is 150V (our D3a operating point) plus the voltage we have raised the cathode by (1.38V) so ~151V. If we were to attach the anode of the D3a directly to the grid of the 2A3 there would be 151V on the 2A3 grid, which would be a very bad thing. Remember, from our 2A3 design there's 0V on the grid, -45V relative to the cathode, so applying 151V wouldn't do the 2A3 any good at all.<br />
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So we need a way to ensure this doesn't happen. The three usual methods are capacitor coupling, interstage transformer coupling, and direct coupling. Capacitor coupling is the most common, and for good reason; it's the easiest to implement. And whilst some say other methods sound better others are inclined not to agree; you need to build for yourself and see what you think. Capacitor coupling works in this application because capacitors block constant voltage but allow changes in voltage to pass, so using a capacitor blocks the 151V but allows the signal to pass to the 2A3 grid. We just need to work out how big a capacitor we need.<br />
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Whilst almost any capacitor would block the 151V on the D3a anode the coupling capacitor forms a high-pass filter with the 2A3 grid resistor, so if the value is too low the f-3 corner frequency could be too high and we would lose our bass again.<br />
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The high pass filter capacitor value is given by:<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
capacitance (farads) = 1 / (2 x pi x corner frequency f-3 (hertz) x resistance (ohms))</div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
C = 1 / (2 x pi x f-3 x R)</div>
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Using the 40Hz f-3 we designed the 2A3 stage for gives:<br />
C = 1 / (2 x 3.142 x 40 x 100000) = 0.4uF<br />
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0.4uF isn't a common value, but 0.47uF is. And it has the advantage that as it is slightly larger it drops the f-3 frequency to around 34Hz. Whilst beneficial as it drops the high pass filter a few Hz it also doesn't compound high pass filters at the same frequency, which wouldn't be ideal in some respects.<div><br /></div><div>But you could also choose to use a 1uF coupling capacitor which would drop f-3 to 17Hz. This is perhaps a nicer place to be, but it requires a bigger value capacitor, and some audibly prefer smaller. More capacitance generally costs more too.<br />
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There is roughly 151V across this capacitor so the capacitor needs a higher voltage rating. Generally, you want to be using a nice film capacitor here. Some swear by paper in oil, others prefer PP. But most film capacitors used in valve amplifiers are rated for 630V, some 250V, so more than adequate.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><b>Volume Control</b></div><div><br /></div><div>This just leaves the volume pot. There is a balance to be struck here, 50k is pretty good but others can be used.</div><div><br />
<br /></div></div><div>And now it's confession time. It's so long since I first started preparing these two blogs I've lost the drawing file somewhere on an old computer which had the circuits and values :-(. But if you've made it this far then you have enough persistence to fill the values in for yourself :-). So no final glory shot of the full amp circuit, but who knows, maybe in another seven years I might do a blog about the power supply...</div>SimonsNewAdventuresInHiFihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18135925051823781254noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1785499288157034309.post-69770869924162210242019-06-02T03:43:00.001-07:002019-06-03T14:42:45.247-07:00Audio Meet - Owston 1st June 2019<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Another year has passed since the last Owston meet, and my last blog. I'm not sure a post a year is really a blog...</div>
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Anyway, it was great to meet up again with lots of old friends and some new ones. The weather was fortunately dry (on Saturday at least) and warm if a little humid. Outside was a pleasant relief from the room inside which later on started to feel like a sauna with so many bodies, and so many kW being drawn out of the wall.</div>
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After lots of setting up and chat our "host" and organiser Steve welcomed all and got us underway.<br />
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This year there were a couple of dedications to Richard Dunn of NVA who had recently passed away. First Dave MCRU...<br />
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...then Lindsey who had attended Richard's funeral two days before.<br />
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I only met Richard once, the previous year when he attended Owston for the first time and I picked him up and dropped him off at the train station. He was an interesting man, and very different in person than his internet persona.<br />
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First away today was Ed with a system he explained was where he was 10 years ago. The 811 amp he had dragged out of the loft especially for the day, which he used with his own design VoFo speakers. The amp outputs less than 3W and as the VoFos aren't hugely efficient the audience listened in well observed silence. Source was a netbook with small USB DAC I think.<br />
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Steve C was next with his well regarded 13E1 OTL and Fane single driver speakers. The OTL makes less than 1W, but the Fanes are efficient enough to enable a decent volume in the room. I've heard this system in Steve's house a few times and it's truly wonderful, though I found the bass a bit light for my taste. But in this large room the bass was a very pleasant surprise, deeper and more extended. The combination makes really nice music.<br />
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Did I say I like valves that glow? They're beauties :-)<br />
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Then Ant, Steve's son, demoed his turntable with Steve's amp and speakers. This is one of the earliest of Ant's Lenco customisations, possibly his first, where he cuts down the top plate to resemble something along the lines of a PTP.<br />
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This time Ant also had a new unipivot arm he'd recently built from scratch, turning the pieces on his lathe. Sounded really very nice. Unfortunately I don't have any closeups of it - the room is tricky for photography, and much darker than it appears in the photos. The camera autofocus often struggles, and manual focus is tricky as it's so dark. Oh well.<br />
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And then it was me. When I've brought stuff before it's sounded somewhere between okay and horrible, so it was with much trepidation I tried again. It might have been a little unwise but the whole system I brought was being used together for the first time. What could possibly go wrong???<br />
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Well, it worked, as in it made a sound, and I thought it was okay, but was a bit too concerned with trying to get the bass balance right to really listen. I was pretty relieved as when I'd brought the Quasar speakers previously they had sounded dreadful as the bass wasn't attenuated enough at the much higher levels in the large room than at home. An important lesson was learnt that day.<br />
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But there weren't really many comments about how it sounded, apart from Dave's "can't polish a turd" (which was hopefully tongue in cheek!) so I guess there's more work to be done.<br />
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There are a few blogs that need writing about this kit, but the turntable is one of Ant's Lenco GL75 modifications with a Linn Ekos and Ortofon Kontrapunkt B. Neither would have been my first choice companions but I had them lying in a cupboard so it was a zero further cost option. The phonostage is a Salas' simplistic folded NJFET.<br />
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Then it gets a bit more interesting. The GM70 amp using coppers is directly coupled to the wideband Fostex 208ESigmas, with a simple first order filter to the Fostex T90A supertweeters. Although I roll the bass off via the GM70 cathode bypass caps so it's not stressing the OPTs I'm largely using the natural roll off of the 208 on the baffle at around 150Hz.<br />
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Below the 208s are Supravox 285GMFs in H baffles which are directly coupled to two cheap ebay 3116 class D subwoofer amps with a built-in lowpass filter at 180Hz. Not ideal but dead easy and dead cheap.<br />
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And a significant increase in clarity when I initially removed the Quasar series crossover to try this arrangement. These baffles were knocked up recently so are a work in progress, but I prefer them to the original Quasar.<br />
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Then came Stephen aka izzy wizzy, with a rather large van full of gear. An excellent effort for his first time visit :-). Hopefully it won't be his last.<br />
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It's tricky to know where to start with this setup. Speakers are Tannoy 15" Gold in the original 1950s corner cabinets. They're quite big! And rather magnificent. The turntable is a DIY job (from a group buy???) with Stephen's long term evolution phonostage. There may be a pre amp in there, or was it a headphone amp, or both, and then his 813 PP Nemesis amp. PP isn't my thing but I think this is the best one I've heard. Tremendous grip but with the subtlety and detail that thoriated filaments can give.<br />
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Stephen had specially made some sides to the amps as a safety feature. They rather reminded me of the art deco architecture of Napier in Steven's home country.<br />
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The blue glow is of course from a mercury vapour rectifier. All the amps used them :-).<br />
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Just a small box of valves...<br />
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And safety first of course...<br />
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Next was Chris. Following the big sound of the Tannoys wouldn't be easy, and the small Fostex speakers really didn't look up to it. But of course Chris had a trick or two up his sleeve, and paired with a small sub, a large solid state PA amp and some digital tricks I don't understand filled the room.<br />
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Chris has "adapted" the Fostex with a crossover. Astonishing performance really.<br />
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After lunch it was Colin's turn at the top of the room with his latest version of Eddingdale speakers with high quality drivers. Powered by Nick's original P6 solid state monoblocks and Njoe Tjoeb CD player. Personally I prefer baffles and efficient paper drivers but these are probably the best box loudspeakers I've heard.<br />
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And then it was Steve's turn. Steve was having a bit of a bad day as his PX25 amp had decided to have a strop and not work properly. Steve thought it might have been a dead rectifier, but fortunately had brought his little NVA amp as back up, so used that instead.<br />
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Next was Mike, who drives up on his motorbike and sidecar so travels light. Source is his phone, via Bluetooth I think, into his PCL86 spud amp using SMPS PS. He had brought small ex-music centre speakers but pressed Colin's Monacor coaxial driver speakers in to service. Sounded really nice.<br />
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Then we had a triumvirate of Dave, Nick and Gary, with Steve's speakers.<br />
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The turntable is a prototype that Nick has been working on with a company from York. They've fabricated the turntable, Nick has been working on the software control side.<br />
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Nick explained how he'd started with speed control, but ended up with phase control too, and remarked how he'd ended up at pretty much SP10 territory.<br />
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The phonostage is one of Nick's, and Gary's PS Audio preamp was used as some gain was required to drive Nick's 211 amp.<br />
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And then Thomas, who'd spent a fair bit of the morning assembling and then fettling the latest "Tower of Power" incarnation, now sporting GK71s. Unfortunately the DC heater supply had blown so some running repairs were required.<br />
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Thomas also brought his new Quasar baffles made from old wardrobes with Lowther PM6C and Eminence Beta 15 bass helpers.<br />
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Thomas seemed a little unhappy with how the system sounded, particularly the bass but I thought it was alright. I was a little surprised how well behaved the treble was, no Sidcup screech that I could hear.<br />
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There had, however, been a lot of unnecessary and frankly infantile comments about his Lowthers. I'm really not sure why...<br />
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So, next we were treated to JohnG's Quad ESL 57s, with the same turntable/ phonostage/ pre/ poweramp the Dave, Nick and Gary used. Apparently these had been refurbished reasonably recently, and though I haven't heard many electrostatics those that are familiar with them thought these to be very good.<br />
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If I lived in a world of Ella and Frank all the time these might just be perfect. But I don't and they don't have enough bass for me. But if I could have a pair in a room for just those moments that would be very nice indeed :-).<br />
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Then Ed demonstrated his second system with lateral FET amp and Ariel speakers (the piano black ones right back at the beginning). I've heard Aerials sound a little underwhelming but was impressed with these that Ed built.<br />
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I was starting to get a little jaded by now and spent some time outside. But I very briefly caught Les of Avondale Audio's amp with Colin's Eddingdale speakers, but didn't hear enough to be able to really form an opinion.<br />
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Then we heard Gary's PS Audio pre and DAC with Ali's 300B OTLs through Steve's Fane speakers. Very nice I thought.<br />
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And then we were treated to Mark's one treble horn. This was hardcore stuff for the purist and involved one channel of castanets amongst other things.<br />
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By this time I was struggling from all the different sounds we'd heard and it was time to pack all my stuff back in to the car. I did get chance to hear Ali's NCore 400 monoblocks and they were really very good. Food for thought.<br />
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And that concluded another great day. Everything sounded really very good, and there was lots of good chat. Roll on next year.SimonsNewAdventuresInHiFihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18135925051823781254noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1785499288157034309.post-60880102098471979262018-06-30T15:19:00.000-07:002018-06-30T15:20:18.551-07:00Audio Meet - Owston 30th June 2018A whole year has passed since the last Owston meet (and nearly a year since my last blog, which speaks volumes for my lack of personal progress...) Unlike last year's miserable weather this year we had clear blue skies and barely a drop of rain in a month.<br />
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We were a little down on numbers this year but still a decent turnout, and a couple of new faces. After lots of chat Steve got us underway.<br />
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First away was Steve C. The room is a shocker for photography, especially as all the lights were off, but with strong sunlight flooding in through the windows. Not a great photo of Steve introducing is system.<br />
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In a reflective mood<br />
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Steve was using a CD player through one of Ant's passive pres, <a href="http://www.audio-talk.co.uk/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=7241" target="_blank">DIY NVA amp</a> and <a href="http://www.audio-talk.co.uk/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=7242" target="_blank">triple cone 12" Fane speakers</a>. Steve's had some fun and games with some of his speakers in this sometimes killer of a room but these Fanes went down very well.<br />
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Waiting in the wings on the table was more gear that would make an appearance later.<br />
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Next was Mike who was using a Squeezebox Touch, a DIY DAC, MP41 pre, LM3886 amp made with Chinese boards, and Zingali speakers. The sound was a little strident and there was some discussion about whether the room boom was rearing it's head, and if the Chinese LM3886 amps might not be helping.<br />
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And next was Steve S. Usual DVD player with TeraDak, MP41-type driving PX25 amp with Tribute ITs and OPTs, and open baffles with four drive units.<br />
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Sneaking in before lunch was Ed with his Alpair 10P studio monitors without the tweeter connected. The amp was a <a href="http://www.audio-talk.co.uk/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=7296" target="_blank">5W PP lateral FET</a> job so volume was necessarily low.<br />
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Top right is a second <a href="http://www.audio-talk.co.uk/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=7302" target="_blank">lateral FET amp</a><br />
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During lunch Steve gave his <a href="http://www.audio-talk.co.uk/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=7307" target="_blank">PCL86 amp</a> a spin<br />
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And then it was the big system at the other end of the room. Colin started by introducing his <a href="http://www.audio-talk.co.uk/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=7076" target="_blank">open baffle speakers</a>, designed by Scott, using a Monacor coaxial unit and two 15" Monacor bass helpers, with a Fostex T90A supertweeter,<br />
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The Nick introduced the rest of the system - a Technics 1210 turntable with a SME 309 arm I think, Benz SL cartridge, a new JFET phono amp with ECC88s and ECC82 cathode follower, and solid state shunt regs power supply, S&B TVC passive pre, P6 monoblocks, and "incredibly expensive" mains cables.<br />
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A short interlude whilst Mike tried his Zingali speakers with Ed's Pass F6 clone to see if that might tame some of the issues earlier.<br />
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Nick noticed a queue forming at the bus stop, but Andrew was fed up of waiting<br />
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Chris was next with his Colin-built <a href="http://www.audio-talk.co.uk/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=7269" target="_blank">MLTLs</a> with the same Monacor coaxial driver used in Colin's OBs. Used with a Squeezebox Touch, M2TECH DAC and NAD amp.<br />
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And then it was time for the other bits on the table Steve was using. Starting with Neal introducing his Goldring G99 turntable and heavily modded PHONO II.<br />
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Then Dave described his <a href="http://www.audio-talk.co.uk/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=6673" target="_blank">balanced preamp</a>, essentially an Arduino platform with modules and labour-of-love meters, and Transcendant OTL<br />
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And then it was time for me to head off. I really must get on with some projects for next year...</div>
SimonsNewAdventuresInHiFihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18135925051823781254noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1785499288157034309.post-20855141245882085372017-08-18T08:29:00.001-07:002017-08-18T09:16:12.578-07:00Owston - Saturday 9th June 2007<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
This was the second meet of the year, and a return to Owston. The thread associated with this meet is <a href="http://www.world-designs.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=2733" target="_blank">here</a>. So on with the photos.</div>
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These were Steve S' third incarnation of open baffles I think, according tot he link above. Next to them are Scott's, hmm, not sure how you'd describe them, BIBs I think. They had a treated 4" (or was it 3") Fostex driver and the bass came out of the pipe at the top. I recall them being highly praised for their imaging. Looks like Steve's amp in the background.</div>
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A Goodmans 301 and Audiom 61 per side with his Lowther EX4s</div>
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Steve's amp - not sure what the valves are, think they might be DET25s...<div>
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This is apparently an Arcturus 180 rectifier. It was pretty rare 10 years ago, so even rarer now presumably.<br />
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Will's setup. Lenco GL75 I'd guess with one of his Schroeder-type arms, various DHT amps including 45s, and Jericho horns with a Fostex FF225F and Visaton supertweeter. </div>
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A closer view</div>
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Nick's Quasars, still sans supertweeter, and 300B amp I think. Colin's electrostatic in the background, and possibly his turntable.</div>
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Nick's D3a phono amp with what looks like a 300B amp with an Aikido driver plus a pre stage in front. Note the large low ESR lytic cap bank. And what looks like my AE C core OPTs clipleaded.<br />
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Now then, I think these are Steve's old 300A valves. Quite something.<br />
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I should know what this is as most of it's mine. There's an old 70s JVC DD turntable on the floor which would have been used with PHONO II. At the front is C3g-2A3. At the back looks to be my WE91-style amps, and in front is Andrew I's 6080? Futterman OTL. Fostex 208Ez horns with T90A supertweeters. </div>
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My C3g-2A3 amp with what looks like Sovtek 2A3s</div>
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I think this was Mick M's system. I'd guess Lenco GL75, PHONO II clone, 2A3 amp, and Fostex 206 drivers. </div>
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Now, I think this might be Richard Cooper's stuff. The preamp had a small fortune's worth of Audio Note copper PIO caps.</div>
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And finally, a "close-up" of Andrew's OTL</div>
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SimonsNewAdventuresInHiFihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18135925051823781254noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1785499288157034309.post-69478032140831567062017-08-16T11:12:00.001-07:002017-08-18T09:33:11.316-07:00Witham 2 - Saturday 20th January 2007Following on from the previous few photos I have of <a href="http://simonsnewadventuresinhifi.blogspot.co.uk/2017/08/eggfest-4-saturday-18th-november-2006.html" target="_blank">Eggfest 4</a>, I have a handful from the second time we met at Witham, just off the A1, organised by Martin, RIP. Peter Comeau, the then proprietor of WAD, made an appearance too. The original thread about the meet is <a href="http://www.world-designs.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=1771" target="_blank">here</a>.<br />
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I seem to recall a plan being hatched in the bar later over more than a few pints of a road trip to AE in the Netherlands. Or maybe that was the next time? Anyway, here are the photos. There's only a few of them, but they're quite busy.<br />
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So, starting from the left are Ed's VoFos I think (or are they Ariels?), Fostex, erm, 206s? Next to them is Nick's Quasar with Fostex, erm, 167? and Eminence Beta 15?, but before supertweeter. At the back are Steve S' Lowther EX4 horns, later named "Angel horns" by Peter Comeau. In front are my WE91-style amps (see photo below). On the right, at the very back might be Nick's D3a phono stage, then Nick's Technics SP10, then my Garrard 401 in a rather heavy birch ply plinth and oak unipivot arm that I seem to recall sounded dreadful here. Think we took it off less than half way through a track. And at the front I think is Andrew I's Ongaku clone?<br />
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A close-up of my WE91s with passive control amp, sat on a huge lump of slate Paul had brought with him. Steve S' amp behind to the right (DET something?). Not sure what the other amp is. Two further speakers in the back corner. I think one is Martin's TLs (IPL?), the other Andrew's Heil air motion transformer speaker.<br />
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Nick's SP10 and D3a phono<br />
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Nick's 2A3 driven by C3g<br />
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Paul's Quasars, with Fostex 108Ez, Nick's Quasars, Andrew's Heil, Martin's TL, Ed's VoFo/Ariel, Steve's EX4 horn</div>
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And that's your lot. It was after this that Peter Comeau went off and investigated open baffles for himself.SimonsNewAdventuresInHiFihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18135925051823781254noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1785499288157034309.post-6726646692375678482017-08-16T10:43:00.000-07:002017-08-16T10:43:07.937-07:00Eggfest 4 - Saturday 18th November 2006Following the <a href="http://simonsnewadventuresinhifi.blogspot.co.uk/2017/08/eggfest-4th-june-2006.html" target="_blank">previous meet</a> this was known as Eggfest 4 - the fourth time we'd met at Eggborough power station. I took very few photos so this one's short and sweet.<br />
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I think this first amp was Spacehopper's (Sean). Nick helped with the design, and it's 45 output, possibly driven by a choke loaded 26??? Or maybe a 76?<br />
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Don't know about this one, I have no recollection<br />
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This might have been Mark's C3m - KR300B?<br />
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This is one of Will's prototype Schroeder-type arms<br />
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And that's your lot. Short and sweet.SimonsNewAdventuresInHiFihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18135925051823781254noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1785499288157034309.post-75093955287119534582017-08-15T15:55:00.002-07:002017-08-16T10:00:25.759-07:00Eggfest 4th June 2005<div dir="ltr">
I've quite a lot of photos from old meets which I've been meaning to post for quite a while. In the early days I only took a few snaps for my own interest, so for this first post there's only a few.</div>
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Eggfest was the start of the larger meets, when a large room was needed because we couldn't all fit in to someone's lounge. So we used the function room at Eggborough power station, which was a lot larger than anyone's lounge!</div>
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Originally conceived by Steve Shiels and Paul Barker IIRC, the theme was boat anchors - proper large, heavy, uncompromising valve amplifiers. I have a vague feeling that this might not have been the first Eggborough meet though.</div>
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So here are the photos. My memory is a little hazy on a lot of the details now though - but it was 12 years ago...<br />
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This first photo is of James D's Quasar open baffles and Paul Barker's Ariels.</div>
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Here's a closer view of Paul's crossover<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqcPwDh_JYw1X5b6Q1XowI8x6pa41zMXcfqkJBzHtnrhAiQhjLS6MhqZIGRzuOkLlSqR4w4PUb5e6rVs5eY8wbf8Ay3NQdUsHrxIIuDWD9zRdCa0PLynmzzf_uG94ZqUYNbP7XjYlWEvQ/s1600/IMG_3769small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqcPwDh_JYw1X5b6Q1XowI8x6pa41zMXcfqkJBzHtnrhAiQhjLS6MhqZIGRzuOkLlSqR4w4PUb5e6rVs5eY8wbf8Ay3NQdUsHrxIIuDWD9zRdCa0PLynmzzf_uG94ZqUYNbP7XjYlWEvQ/s640/IMG_3769small.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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And this is James' crossover<br />
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I'm not 100% sure about this one but I think it's the power supply for Nick G's phone stage in the centre and his 211 amp at the back, Paul Barker's 212 amp and driver stage on the floor, and possibly Paul's Systemdek record player? Perhaps it's not a phono stage PS but driver stage PS?<br />
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Here's Colin Topps' electrostatic panels, with bass helpers. Looks like a WAD PP amp - 5881???<br />
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Slightly larger view<br />
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Mark Jeffs' (IslandPink) amps. Struggling with this one - looks like a KR or Emissions Lab output valve. 300B??? James D's portable CD player.</div>
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A closer view<br />
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James D's Quasar speakers with AER and Supravox drivers, Mark's amps and I think his phono in the middle<br />
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And here is Mark with Tony B in the background, I think<br />
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Colin's speaker with Nick's 211 amp on the floor. Not sure who's amp it is on the table, nor the valves it's sporting.<br />
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A closer view of Nick's 211 amp. The 211 output stage is on the floor, and the pre and driver stages are on the table - shunt regged 76 to 45 IT coupled to the 211.<br />
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Paul's Ariels with 212 output stage amp next to it, and the pre and driver stage next the 212<br />
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The 212s heated...<br />
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Now then, in many people's view this was the star of the show, and is still talked about today in wistful tones. Jonathan Noble's 45 amp. Built to pack into a suitcase when he travelled. I hadn't seen anything like it - under the top plate was a mass of resistors that looked like a spider had created it.<br />
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Paul's 212 amp again<br />
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Don't know about this one, think it might be Paul's again?<br />
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Mark's amps with Paul's Ariels<br />
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Nick's 211 amp<br />
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And that's your lot for this meet.</div>
SimonsNewAdventuresInHiFihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18135925051823781254noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1785499288157034309.post-85141005634939912642017-06-11T15:42:00.000-07:002017-06-15T05:42:03.048-07:00Audio Meet - Owston 10th June 2017<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Flaming June. Flaming June indeed! The rather soggy start to meteorological summer continued into Saturday morning, but at least the start of summer means it's Owston time again!</div>
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Every Owston meet I come away with renewed enthusiasm to get on with my own projects, and yet again another year slides by with very little actual progress. This next year will be the year!</div>
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Now this room presents some photographic challenges - the light is poor so the autofocus hunts and rarely locks on in focus. So I usually end up manually focussing, which is a bit of a pain in low light with a modern autofocus SLR as it doesn't have much help when you're off autopilot. Most of the photos are reasonably okay though. And I prefer not to use flash if I can as it bleaches out a lot of the detail. And things that glow :-). I've tried to make a note of what people brought but it gets trickier each year as we become an increasingly broad church.</div>
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Anyway, enough chuntering, let's get on with it.</div>
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As usual, after setting up and some catching up our organiser Steve S called us to order.</div>
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With the housekeeping done we kicked off with Ali. Ali had brought a table full of gear, a lot of it the 4 channel active system he uses with his OB speakers - amps and DSP.</div>
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Ali had to set me right with a fair bit of this (thanks Ali :-)). The turntable is one of Cressy's modified and replinthed Lenco GL75 with a Long Dog Audio power supply. Arm is a Mission 774, with a Benz Gullwing SLR. The phonostage is a Firebottle. The woofers are driven by an Artcoustic 500W class AB amp, 200Hz-800Hz is handled by the Visatons driven by a 3000W class D amp, 800Hz-5kHz are Crysler D500 compression drivers driven by a Transcendent Mini Beast OTL, and above 5kHz are SB Acoustics Sartori tweeters driven by a Monarchy Audio SRM 70 feedbackless class A amp. All brought together with an active crossover, a miniDSP 4x10HD. Phew! That's a lot of boxes.<br>
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Music played was:</div>
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St Germain - something from the Tourist album</div>
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Mighty Sam McClain - something from Give It Up To Love</div>
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Yello - The Race</div>
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Next up, going around the room was Philip, Pre65. Phil pointed out he didn't use any DSP!<br>
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His system was a Philips 1541 DAC (I think), an Audio Note copy preamp, and a pair of 50W MOSFET monoblocks amps based on a Nelson Pass design. Speakers are his OBs with 18" Fane bass helpers with Alpair 12P main driver, and a Mark Audio tweeter on top.<br>
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Music played was a Russian choral piece, Acker Bilk (to much amusement), and Pachelbel's Kanon.<br>
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Next was Mike with his system which he'd brought in his motorbike sidecar.<br>
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A laptop as source, I think there was a small DAC perhaps, then EL84 PP which is now boxed up and looking rather swish. Speakers are from an old Music Centre which Mike hotrodded with Altai? drivers, and a Coles tweeter. He has also has added cardboard tube port - adding that nothing had been designed!<br><br>
Music played was The Three Ravens by John Harlech from the album Secret Story: Songs From A History Of Britain, Another Wierdo by Gerard Presencer from the album Groove Travels, and Chicken Pox by Booker T. & The M.G.s from the album Melting Pot.<div>
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Chris was next, and introduced his system by saying he'd actually brought 4!<br>
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There was an impressive amount of kit, which takes a lot of bringing and setting up. Amps were a PA rig, with various, um, control gubbins, with his own design and built speakers, plus the Behringers, plus Dave Dlugos Fostex FE126EN specials.<br><br>
Music played was Frim Fram Sauce by Diana Krall with the PA system, Buena by Morphine through the Behringers, and then Back in Black by AC/DC with the small Fostex. And as a Brucey Bonus additional track before lunch a choral piece.<br>
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During lunch in one of the breakout zones our Dave The Bass showed his versatility with a ukelele (might be a rather large download - maybe 33MB).<br>
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<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dx-hasn7VVhm-QIouqjZzG47yR-DMerpW55gMVJAifkhckr6NBl4UtXf4PE22sMyclq-r9rvlmFATaKalMK' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe>
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Now fed and watered Alan went next. Apparently Alan is better known as Firebottle, though I suspect he's best known for his trousers.<br>
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Alan was also using a Lenco GL75, with a valve preamp of his own design, and also a power amp he designed with a valve driver and a MOSFET output stage. Speakers were rather bijou Neat jobs.<br>
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Music played was Rock Around The Clock, something from Delta Time by Hans Theessink and Terry Evans, and something by Yello from the Toy album.<br>
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On to Steve C who seemed to have managed to fit half his living room in his car.<br>
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Steve was also using a Lenco GL75, and another conversion by Ant. It had a Mayware Formula 4 arm which Greg gave to him as a "box of bits". An NVA 1 phono stage connected to one of Ant's passive switchers with phase splitting transformers to Steve's balanced EL84(?) monos. Love the port and starboard illumination! Speakers were his own Flatback Banned metronomes using Faital 6" main driver and SB Acoustics tweeter.<br>
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Music played was Graham Street Station(?) on vinyl, That's Amore by Ray Gelato on cd, and finally something by Level 42 on vinyl.<br>
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And then on to our "host" Steve S.<br>
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Amp was Steve's usual PX25 with 4 power supplies providing a heady 5W! His latest speakers use a Beyma air motion tweeter (without horn this time) and a Fane 12" driver below 1500Hz. The bottom end is reinforced with a Fane 18", and the top with a Fostex T900A supertweeter.<br>
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Music played was Black Dog from Rivers Johansson's Righteous Liar album (notable as it features Steve's daughter on lead vocals!), something by Bowie I think, and Marie Boine.<br>
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Next was Stojan using his speakers with Steve C's system.<br>
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The speakers are Bulgarian designed, 87dB, using Seas H1333 dual concentric drivers. They're made by laminations glued together to form the complex horn mouth. They were superbly finished it has to be said.<br>
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Music played was Me or Him from Roger Water's Radio K.A.O.S., Lee Harvey Oswald, and Diana Krall live I think.<br>
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Ray P was next using Steve S's source and speakers.<br>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJV7dhE3DWxx7NabrBHV6sOtD2hAq8NOhKxl3WQF4M68rx56Fn1AZjL89G7rmsKHZMrp7jlVuKlv2irHJ6G2om3FU5oFfa3k192N8vV1daFRjzm_0P0HqjMxhyFFjSV5tiZ1z6wJe3lxY/s1600/10a.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJV7dhE3DWxx7NabrBHV6sOtD2hAq8NOhKxl3WQF4M68rx56Fn1AZjL89G7rmsKHZMrp7jlVuKlv2irHJ6G2om3FU5oFfa3k192N8vV1daFRjzm_0P0HqjMxhyFFjSV5tiZ1z6wJe3lxY/s640/10a.JPG" width="640"></a><br>
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Ray had brought his Transcendent 300B SE OTL build with 8 300Bs. That's 8. For 1 of the sweetest watts of power you will ever hear!<br>
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Music played was some classical - Arcangelo Corelli performed by La Serenissima (tracks 4 and 5 of <a href="https://www.amazon.co.uk/Italian-Baroque-Instrumental-Music-States/dp/B01MT9V1V2/ref=sr_1_1?s=music&ie=UTF8&qid=1497292804&sr=1-1&keywords=la+serenissima" target="_blank">this</a>), Elbow - This Blue World, and then Walk On The Wild Side.<br>
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Yeah, this is what the boxes for 8 300Bs looks like...<br>
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I had a crafty listen to Stojan's headphone amp whilst some other fettling was going on. The CD player looked fairly well modded with maybe a valve output stage(?), the amp uses a EZ81 rectifier, E88CC driver and 6H30i output valves. Headphones were Grado Reference.<br>
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Stojan had also brought a phono stage which we didn't get chance to listen to unfortunately, but he says he's coming again next year with a full system, so we'll be able to hear whatever he wants to bring.<br>
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Back to Steve S's rig for another Steve, vinylnvalves. (The more observant will have noticed the looming presence of The Tower Of Power :-).)<br>
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Steve was using Ncore amps and we had another blast of Walk On The Wild Side.<br>
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Then we had a blast on Steve's PX25 amp.<br>
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And then on Firebottle's 6080 OTL.<br>
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Now make way for the Tower Of Power - here's Thomas!<br>
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6SN7 DC (I think) to 6SN7 IT to 801A for a whole 2W of goodness. Also using vinylnvalves phono stage.<br>
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Then Steve made a switch to the power supply of the phono, a switch mode. It was inconclusive which was best - I thought the second but the amp had been turned up too which made it difficult to tell.<br>
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Then Stojan's CD player was hooked up to Ali's system.<br>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX-K6PuleUy_SbwTyvtL4Kl1nhFZTWgLgPBo4NzqUpbRli8HZoraD-yJ1XPtLYILR0sA9hwJiVjW576kru187bLJSkrhEHTMMzZHZQh_urgzw6jMIFZJmWuxz7Q_CCfLo_XW8wO1D48ts/s1600/15a.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX-K6PuleUy_SbwTyvtL4Kl1nhFZTWgLgPBo4NzqUpbRli8HZoraD-yJ1XPtLYILR0sA9hwJiVjW576kru187bLJSkrhEHTMMzZHZQh_urgzw6jMIFZJmWuxz7Q_CCfLo_XW8wO1D48ts/s640/15a.JPG" width="640"></a></div>
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At that point tea was taken for some recharging. Afterwards it was Doc Mods time. Chris set up Doc's own Doc Mods, and they certainly sounded better up against the wall where they were voiced to be rather than in space.<br>
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Then it was the turn of the Cubes on Steve C's system.<br>
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And then Dave The Bass' Doc Mods, which he really rather likes.<br>
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Finally, for me at least, Dave's old workshop speakers got an airing. I don't remember now which Fostex driver.<br>
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And that was my lot. Another super day out with old friends and new. And I really must get my finger out for next year...</div>
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</div>SimonsNewAdventuresInHiFihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18135925051823781254noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1785499288157034309.post-24303296221008262752016-11-27T14:31:00.000-08:002016-11-27T14:31:28.190-08:00Alpair 12P MLTLs - Day 8Day 8 - 3 hours<br />
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Time to cut out the absorbent material and glue it in both cabinets. It's starting to feel like I'm getting somewhere now.<br />
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First, of course, temperature watch. Even I'm getting bored of this now. Anyway 9 degrees today.<br />
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Here's both cabs together after the cramps were stripped from the second.</div>
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The absorbent is old fashioned carpet underlay, roughly 10mm thick. It's not so easy to get these days, fortunately Dave the Bass had some spare he let me have. Thanks Dave :-). The top, back and one side is lined; here it's cut to size and trial fit.</div>
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I used some spray adhesive to mount the material. I was a little unsure what to use, some of the cans sounded like the bond might be a bit temporary or light, and I don't want the linings to come loose in the future. So I used a contact type adhesive, sprayed on to the cabinet and a couple of coats on the material. It comes out as a web and the fibrous nature of the lining meant it webbed up almost immediately without really making contact with the body of the material. On the other hand I found it difficult to get an even coverage on the plywood. I think it might have made quite a mess if I was trying to glue laminate, but it's good enough for this job.<br />
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Once the coats had dried so they were no longer tacky (the can says 2 to 5 minutes but it took more like 10 due to the low temperature) the pieces were placed carefully. As it's a contact adhesive it tends to grab as soon as it touches each other so steady and careful positioning was required. Then pressure was applied to ensure the two substrates made good contact. And that's it. Hopefully.<br />
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All done.<br />
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And here are the two cabinets together.<br />
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One last job for today, glue on the side of one of the cabinets. A little more time today to get a photo as there's a lot less glueing for just a side.<br />
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And here it is cramped up.<br />
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That's it for today, no more cramps.</div>
SimonsNewAdventuresInHiFihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18135925051823781254noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1785499288157034309.post-61018566322721552512016-11-27T10:52:00.001-08:002016-11-27T10:52:32.164-08:00Alpair 12P MLTLs - Day 7Day 7 - 1 hour<br />
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Dad was round again yesterday so as well as clearing leaves from the gutters it was important I got the other cabinet glued up - it's always easier glueing with two!<br />
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First temperature watch, a little cool for glueing really, barely 5 degrees<br />
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Here's the first cab we glued last week now stripped of the cramps. Not bad, but there's a very slight bow in the front baffle. Either there's a slight bow in the bench or the composite of the ply and mdf has expanded or contracted at slightly different rates in the year it's been sat in the garage on the bench subject to the natural moisture in the air. This wouldn't have been a problem if I'd realised when glueing up, but I missed it and the side is a little "short" in centre of the baffle. It shouldn't be a problem as I think I'll have to make a cover for the baffle as the greeny grey look of the 12Ps hasn't gone down too well...<br />
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And here's the second cabinet glued up. Note the damp wood where the glue that's been squeezed out has been wiped off. Best not to get the wood unduly wet as it lifts the grain. Light sanding should fettle this.</div>
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And that's it for another day.<br />
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<br />SimonsNewAdventuresInHiFihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18135925051823781254noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1785499288157034309.post-53802806356262478592016-11-20T04:48:00.000-08:002016-11-20T04:48:37.685-08:00Alpair 12P MLTLs - Day 6Day 6 - 1 hour<br />
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It's nearly a year since I last made any progress with these speakers. It's been a very busy time in the garden this year making trellis fences, gates, arches and a shed from scratch. But now it's winter it's audio time again!<br />
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After a long overdue tidy up in the garage I could see the bench again so I could finally start to glue up the first speaker. But first, temperature watch. It was a particularly mild and pleasant morning - 14 degrees in the still of the low slanting sun.<br />
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Not too much to talk about but here's a photo of the first gluing up. You can never have too many cramps. One side is left off as three of the internal faces are to be lined with absorbency material. Still a fair bit to do.<br />
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<br />SimonsNewAdventuresInHiFihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18135925051823781254noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1785499288157034309.post-62127888167342420822016-09-03T11:15:00.003-07:002016-09-03T11:15:37.049-07:00Lenco L75 ReplinthGoodness, 8 months since my last blog. The Google servers must have thought I'd given up. Life just gets in the way sometimes. And even this isn't a blog about something I've done, it's about a rather special plinth that Anthony Cresswell made for my Lenco L75. And here it is, playing REM's New Adventures in Hi Fi, rather appropriate but completely unintentional.<br />
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I've had a Goldring Lenco for a few years waiting for the right moment to be redeveloped. I'd been leaning towards a solid replacement plinth, either slate or constrained layer damped with various timber sheet materials, which would do away with the slightly tinny top plate. Something along the lines of Pieter's Top Plate looks to have some merit in its approach to me.<br />
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So I was starting to do a little more detailed research about the Lenco itself and how it would need taking apart, chopping down and rebuilding when Ant posted on the Audio Talk forum that he'd just done something very similar. Given my somewhat glacial timescale for audio projects commissioning Ant seemed a pragmatic choice. Besides, he knows what he's doing and I knew he'd make a much better job than I would...<br />
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The Lenco is an idler drive turntable - it doesn't use a soft belt around the rim of the platter, and doesn't drive the spindle directly. It's a mechanically sophisticated method of spinning the platter, but can be affected by poor setup, just like any turntable.<br />
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Unlike Garrards, like a 301 or 401, which drive the inside of the platter rim with a horizontal idler wheel, the Lenco uses a vertical idler wheel which drives the underside of the platter top. Idler drive proponents will discuss at length pros and cons of different drive systems, the quality of the motors, and even whether a grease bearing 301 is better than one with an oil bearing. I'll leave that discussion to others with more time and inclination, but those that have taken these things apart are impressed with the build quality - they're Swiss and the build quality shows.<br />
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Here are a series of photos that Ant took during the build, for which I'm very grateful. The first is when Ant had initially stripped the deck down. It's nearly as old as I am and cosmetically in excellent shape, much better than me. In a way it was a shame it was going under the angle grinder, but some things have to be done.<br />
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No going back now...<br />
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I think this is something akin to the PTP mod mentioned earlier (with apologies to Pieter if it isn't!)<br />
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And now with the idler wheel, spindle and linkages refitted.<br />
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Next job was the plinth with lots of routing of a sandwich of a number of layers of mdf and plywood. The theory of constrained layer damping (CLD) is that a different layer of material is used between others materials to damp vibration that the outer materials can't. Rubber is often used, but as we know, audio is a mysterious beast with many different ways to succeed.<br />
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Here we can see the differing cutouts in each layer - just enough is removed to house the mechanism, this way the mass is maintained.<br />
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Those with a keen eye that know their Lencos will have noted that Ant has been rather clever in the way he's mounted the mechanics. One of the biggest drawbacks with the L75 for me is that the on/off lever is located virtually under the cartridge. I can't imagine how many styluses have been destroyed by unfortunate accident over the years. So Ant reoriented the mechanism with the on/off lever at the back - this is a compromise as it doesn't want to be too close to the arm collar either. This puts the variable speed lever at the front, and the idler wheel at the opposite side of the platter from the arm, which is probably a good thing.<br />
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And here it is with my old Linn Ekos mounted. I'd wanted to try an Audiomods arm but Ant suggested trying the Ekos - it has a very slightly different effective length than the Rega-derived Audiomods so will need an arm board should I change in the future, but using the Ekos was a "zero cost option", additional cost anyway, as it was sat on a shelf unused. And for that matter I had a Kontrapunkt b with low hours also sat in a box, so why not use that too.<br />
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Next job was sanding. Lots and lots of sanding, after the plinth was cut roughly to shape.<br />
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Next was paint time, starting with the underside.<br />
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Just 5 coats of black on the rim. It does look good I have to say.<br />
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It turns out the mechanics weren't quite as good as thought. Somehow it had seized "on" - even though the platter wasn't turning the motor was turning. Must have been like this for some time before I obtained it. Previously I'd only listened to about a side of one record - I'd lashed up an old Linn K18 just to try it and was surprised by just how "together" it sounded. Enough to know a full rebuild was worthwhile ;-). So at least I didn't make it any worse. So Ant stripped it down, which saved me a job.</div>
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Note the pit the spindle has worn in the bottom plate. Ant simply turned the plate over. Testament to the Swiss build quality really.<br />
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Back to the plinth, and it was veneer time - a simple English oak. It's difficult to see but Ant managed to salvage the original Lenco sticker for provenance - it's located on the left hand side of the remaining part of the platter.<br />
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And here it is with a couple of coats of danish oil (I think)<br />
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And finally at home with the the Kontra b fitted, this time playing the Living Stereo release of Reiner's Chicago Philharmonic performance of Pictures at an Exhibition.<br />
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I must say I'm very pleased with how it's turned out. I'm always a little reluctant to wax lyrical as one day I'll probably look back and think I was talking rubbish, and well, we've all read those oh-so fawning reviews that mean nothing.<br />
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But Ant's done a terrific job, much better than I would. It strikes an excellent compromise - it has the drive of an idler (obviously), and the effortlessness of a good direct drive. Compared to my 401 in twin deck slate plinth with 12" ebony Schroeder-a-like arm and Denon 103pro cartridge this has the edge. The bass is firm and controlled, and better balanced than the 401 I think, which tends to tank-on. Coupled with the fluid mid that reminds me of direct drive this is an excellent turntable.<br />
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One day I should try an alternative arm and cartridge as I've never been a huge fan of the Kontra b - at least the 103pro should get a run out. That might squeeze a little more musicality out, but for now I'm very happy with it as it is.<br />
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I should add that I have no connection with Ant other than as an audio friend through Audio Talk. We live about half an hour away which makes it easier too. But I have no financial interest. With that said, make no mistake - in the crazy world of audio, if you were to find yourself a half decent Lenco (cosmetics aren't important) and get Ant to build you a plinth you'd have a killer turntable for pretty cheap. Ant has a <a href="http://bte-designs.weebly.com/bte-designs-type-1-and-2-lenco-gl75s.html" target="_blank">website</a> where you can read his own thoughts. Cheers Ant.<br />
<br />SimonsNewAdventuresInHiFihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18135925051823781254noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1785499288157034309.post-79446640299733885642016-01-01T12:04:00.001-08:002016-01-01T12:05:19.017-08:00Alpair 12P MLTLs - Part 5Day 5 - 5 hours<br />
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As is customary let's start with temperature-watch - much cooler today, 6 degrees.<br />
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The first job was to finish off the holes for the pseudo tweeter and port for the second baffle. And then rout the holes for the Lpad and speaker terminal in the rear panels. Here's the front baffles with the finished holes.<br />
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With all the holes complete the next job was to rout 45 degrees chamfers around the holes for the 12Ps on the rear of the front baffles. This allows the driver cones to "breathe" as the front baffles are quite thick.<br />
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Then it was time for a trial fit to make sure the 12Ps and Monacor RBT-95SQ pseudo ribbons fit okay. First a sand with 70 grit to clean things up a touch before mounting the drivers. Only one of the pseudo ribbons was tried as they needed unsoldering from the Quasars as well as unscrewing.<br />
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And then it was back to sanding. All surfaces are now sanded to 120 grit both inside and out, I'll finish with 240 grit when assembled. I did test a patch that will eventually be inside with the finer grit and finish was lovely and smooth.<br />
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It's taken a while but the speakers are starting to come together now.SimonsNewAdventuresInHiFihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18135925051823781254noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1785499288157034309.post-22733685788922000962015-12-28T13:06:00.001-08:002015-12-28T13:07:19.388-08:00Alpair 12P MLTLs - Part 4Day 4 - 4 hours<br />
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Goodness, it's over 7 months since my last blog, and over 10 months since I last had chance to play with the speakers. It's fair to say audio has been on a back burner for much of this year, but today I made a little progress with the MLTL speakers :-). But first let's have a look at temperature-watch.<br />
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Parts of the country are experiencing terrible flooding, no doubt made worse by the unseasonably mild weather which is probably retaining a lot of moisture. 12 degrees C, mild for the end of December.<br />
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So first job was to have a quick tidy, then remember where I'd got to. I'd made a start on routing the first hole for the 12P at the end of the last session, but I was rushing and hadn't noticed that the template had slipped slightly and was no longer centred. Fortunately I noticed in time before serious damage was done. So I marked out the circles with a compass to be sure, then carefully reset the template and clamped well.<br />
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More haste less speed. Lesson learnt - measure twice cut once.<br />
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The first hole needed three phases. The first was to rout the inner hole for the driver to pass through, 170mm diameter. The plunge cutter only reaches part of the way through the baffle though, so needs cutting from the other side too - the third phase.<br />
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The second phase is to rebate the driver, 203mm diameter and 11mm deep. This was a bit of a laborious process as there was a lot of wood to cut away. Here's the finished hole. Note the misalignment from cutting from the front and then the back. This was largely due to the initial cut that had slipped. It shouldn't be a problem though, as long as the driver passes through and the driver makes an air tight seal.<br />
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Next was the hole for the Monacor pseudo ribbon I'm going to use to fill the treble out over 12k Hz. I started to cut away the all the wood so the unit sits within a cavity...<br />
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...but then decided that I was probably going over the top so then cut full depth before turning over and finishing the cut. Ideally I guess I would have preferred to isolate the driver from the main chamber and the air pressures within, but hopefully it shouldn't make too much difference. I might even add a plate to the back just to seal it.<br />
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And here's the two holes viewed from the rear.<br />
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Next the 3" port, which requires a 79mm diameter hole. This is perhaps just a little slack, but probably better than being too tight and struggling to insert the port. I can always use a bit of glue or silicon to secure them.<br />
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From the rear<br />
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And here's the first baffle with the initial holes made. It needs a good clean up and a rear 45 degrees chamfer cutting on the rear of the hole for the 12P. And a check to make sure everything fits of course.<br />
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For the second baffle I fully marked out all three holes both front and back first, now I had a little more confidence with what I was doing.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3WseyOwqGH5RRiCyX_YEQjtUVHt5a1QoIyyd9yIT_curAlAiFefD0xGs6_odidrsESEHgx3FksshjSdU_t0Q7bsdDCX8ZrPs6O0jQ6p_Gbavq3yLFfTg-rePyWLGRldH-xu3Rij3QFws/s1600/31.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3WseyOwqGH5RRiCyX_YEQjtUVHt5a1QoIyyd9yIT_curAlAiFefD0xGs6_odidrsESEHgx3FksshjSdU_t0Q7bsdDCX8ZrPs6O0jQ6p_Gbavq3yLFfTg-rePyWLGRldH-xu3Rij3QFws/s640/31.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
And started with the largest hole for the 12P. Here's the first 170mm diameter hole cut and the start of the wider 203mm rebate.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI1LS_gqtLqpixLJpA19ke7_d8uVVpkoTNxBwulQuoDqOhmGn5JkWQjHsVliVFNK6KbN6ZcJIARvE0tOzR6qPmnYQ405DKPOPikltREPUjPihEfgBA6wpI-PN6OaPR3Z3NPgG5mCTbVjk/s1600/32.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI1LS_gqtLqpixLJpA19ke7_d8uVVpkoTNxBwulQuoDqOhmGn5JkWQjHsVliVFNK6KbN6ZcJIARvE0tOzR6qPmnYQ405DKPOPikltREPUjPihEfgBA6wpI-PN6OaPR3Z3NPgG5mCTbVjk/s640/32.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The finished hole from the rear.<br />
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<br />
And from the front.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVSCx-G49CAQvEwUQbfTSX9gA2mSCNSgHAeOLST5rxeObSQEOH2kun0dHcXDNfeoBgJ4YF_M_sG7YoMh9kuqfugZWAm3_1oMqToQTTnIE3YEVy8EgLPhbijTeVLXFMgCo6RgrW-nk2JyI/s1600/34.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVSCx-G49CAQvEwUQbfTSX9gA2mSCNSgHAeOLST5rxeObSQEOH2kun0dHcXDNfeoBgJ4YF_M_sG7YoMh9kuqfugZWAm3_1oMqToQTTnIE3YEVy8EgLPhbijTeVLXFMgCo6RgrW-nk2JyI/s640/34.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
And that was the end of the today's audio fun.SimonsNewAdventuresInHiFihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18135925051823781254noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1785499288157034309.post-78906265747294552842015-05-30T11:51:00.000-07:002015-05-30T11:51:03.704-07:00Design Of A Single Ended 2A3 Valve Amplifier - Part 1<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8XC4NJ-xKjiQvekBZcz-CkC4hPU0KDtODE-fkYciRWLavyu4RrHzzN39Cq2ZcUmEZ7UzcbH9qkQlfmNLbKZ2_Q9NXC1DS4dJXZlRFXXIYNTZ4pNHSlXuy9Nas7Psvej3fykljueK6nkQ/s1600/20150128_184604+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8XC4NJ-xKjiQvekBZcz-CkC4hPU0KDtODE-fkYciRWLavyu4RrHzzN39Cq2ZcUmEZ7UzcbH9qkQlfmNLbKZ2_Q9NXC1DS4dJXZlRFXXIYNTZ4pNHSlXuy9Nas7Psvej3fykljueK6nkQ/s1600/20150128_184604+(Medium).jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />
This is a simple single ended valve amp I "threw together" a couple of years ago. It was meant for a colleague to try valves at home, but never found it's way out of the house. It's been in the project room ever since (as attested by the obligatory dust to be found in all the best male domains) and makes a particularly good match for the <a href="http://simonsnewadventuresinhifi.blogspot.co.uk/search/label/Quasars" target="_blank">Quasars</a>.<br />
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There's nothing fancy about the design - a triode strapped D3a pentode capacitor coupled to a 2A3, both in self bias with AC heating. The HT power supply is a simple LCLC passive filter with a GZ37 rectifier. Here's the audio schematic without part values, all straight forward stuff.<br />
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But it has decent parts and sounds very good. Surprisingly good really. Not the best amp I've built (that's a copper GM70 SE amp, but that's another story), but it fits in a single chassis which makes a change from most of my more recent builds... And I haven't felt the need to replace it which speaks volumes. And in the spirit of openness here's a photo of the inside just to prove how thrown together it was. I certainly wouldn't encourage anyone to study my wiring!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ_CheSR3j88HjB9MA-l2xRCSOZU7ziT0wWK32NHV1IhSxavixLR9lWpQhc-XBdS-_nCfPiT_G_i0iiVFtFqCYg2BSxiLXUsDRtAZNpMCt66b88OrR5GApTdsRQ2p2PqCSZ0sz1G3k6AU/s1600/20150128_185134+(Medium).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ_CheSR3j88HjB9MA-l2xRCSOZU7ziT0wWK32NHV1IhSxavixLR9lWpQhc-XBdS-_nCfPiT_G_i0iiVFtFqCYg2BSxiLXUsDRtAZNpMCt66b88OrR5GApTdsRQ2p2PqCSZ0sz1G3k6AU/s1600/20150128_185134+(Medium).jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The chassis was actually recycled from my very first amp build - a <a href="http://www.atrj13.dsl.pipex.com/na-LW.htm" target="_blank">Bluebell Audio 2A3 Loftin White</a> built 10 years ago. Parts were supplied by <a href="http://www.bluebellaudio.com/" target="_blank">Philip Ramsey</a> using Shishido san's circuit. I just needed to drill a few more holes to accommodate different output transformers, chokes and a volume pot.<br />
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Preamble over, let's talk about the design. Bear in mind this is intended to be a simplified explanation of simple valve amp design - if you want the in-depth theory there are many good sources, try Valve Wizard's <a href="http://www.valvewizard.co.uk/index.html" target="_blank">website</a> or Morgan Jones <a href="http://www.amazon.co.uk/Valve-Amplifiers-Morgan-Jones/dp/0080966403/ref=dp_ob_title_bk" target="_blank">Valve Amplifiers</a>. I would also highly recommend reading Gordon Rankin's write up of his <a href="http://www.wavelengthaudio.com/bugle.pdf" target="_blank">Bugle</a> 45 amp - a great amp and really good design primer. First though, recognition must go to <a href="http://www.longdogaudio.com/" target="_blank">Nick Gorham</a> as it was a circuit he <a href="http://www.audio-talk.co.uk/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=3165" target="_blank">posted</a> that inspired me to build this.<br />
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<h3>
The Output Stage</h3>
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The usual place to start when designing a valve amplifier is the output valve, in this case a 2A3. By looking at the <a href="http://frank.pocnet.net/sheets/049/2/2A3.pdf" target="_blank">datasheet</a> we can see whether it's likely to be suitable for our system, or what we might need in our system to make it "work". Assuming we have some reasonably efficient speakers a 2A3 makes a lot of sense.<br />
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<h4>
Anode (Plate) Characteristics</h4>
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Let's look at the anode characteristics graph on the <a href="http://frank.pocnet.net/sheets/049/2/2A3.pdf" target="_blank">datasheet</a><br />
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This graph shows a series of curves representing the relationship between voltage across the valve and the current through the valve for different grid voltages. Let's consider the classic 2A3 operating point, i.e. how the valve is "set up": 250V, 60mA, -45V on the grid. If we look back at the first page of the datasheet we're even told what might be a good operating point ;-). So looking at the graph above, 250 plate volts and 60 plate milliamps just happens to intersect with where a line representing -43.5 grid volts would be. (Okay, that's not quite -45V but it represents the lower limit of the AC heating, 2.5V.)<br />
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If for instance you maintained 250V across the valve but went with -35 grid volts you'd draw around 115mA. And burn out your 2A3 pretty quickly. So we need to check that our proposed operating point is within the valve's rating, and for a class A1 amplifier the datasheet tells us that we shouldn't go above 300V across the valve, and we can plot this line on the graph.<br />
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The datasheet also tells us we shouldn't let the anode (plate) dissipate more than 15W. So we can add this to the graph too as a curve with a series of points where voltage x current = 15W.<br />
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To draw the 15W curve we could plot a point at 100V and 150mA (which is 15W) say, and another at 200V and 75mA (= 15W), and another at 300V and 50mA (also = 15W), and so on for as many points as we feel necessary. For safe operation of the valve we need to operate in the area of the graph below the curve.<br />
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As we're designing a class A1 amplifier the grid should always remain negative relative to the cathode too, so we also need to be to the right of the 0V grid line too.<br />
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And if we plot all three on the same graph we find the acceptable area of the curves that we want to work within, the green shaded area below.<br />
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And 250V anode voltage and 60mA is right at the limit of this region, thus maximising the power obtained from the valve. In general it's usual to maximise the power obtained from a valve, if you're lucky enough to have rare old monoplates you might choose to be a little kinder to them and maybe run them at 50mA instead...<br />
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<h4>
Loadline</h4>
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The next thing to consider is the loadline, an example of which is also shown on the datasheet, rather conveniently. It's the sloping straight line labelled "LOAD RESISTANCE = 2500 OHMS", centered about the -43.5V grid line, ranging between 0 grid volts and -87 grid volts. This loadline represents the load resistance of the output transformer, which in the case of the datasheet is 2500 ohms. But why 2500 ohms? You could just leave it to the RCA engineers and accept they knew what they were doing, which they most certainly did, but the longer answer is it's a compromise.<br />
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What do we want from our amplification stage? Usually we want to maximise power and we want to minimise distortion. The relative importance of the two depends on what we're trying to achieve, but as this is an output stage we want a good balance of the two.<br />
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If we consider distortion we can see how linear the valve is (or isn't) at our operating point by looking at how evenly spaced the grid lines are along the load line. Between 0V and -60V the spacings look fairly even, but beyond -60V the grid lines tighten a touch. So when the music signal is larger than + or - 15V (so lower than -30V and higher than -60V) the distortion will increase.<br />
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In general, if we wanted to reduce distortion we could increase the load resistance which would flatten the loadline i.e. make it closer to horizontal. But if we do this we will lose some power. And that's the compromise. We're considering the classic 2A3 operating point, and there's good reason for doing so as it's a good balance.<br />
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The rule of thumb for an output valve's load resistance is 3 x the anode (plate) resistance. So if we look at the datasheet again, the plate resistance is given as 800 ohms, which multiplied by 3 gives us 2400 ohms, or our 2k5 output transformers. 3k5 output transformers are often seen used in 2A3 schematics and trade a little output power for slightly lower distortion.<br />
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If we look back at our graph of anode characteristics with our limiting conditions marked on we can see the loadline is right at the very top of the 15W line. In fact part of the loadline actually crosses the 15W line but it's transient and overall the valve dissipates 15W.<br />
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<h4>
Cathode Resistor</h4>
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Okay, that was a bit heavy, sizing the cathode resistor is much easier now we've decided how we want to operate our valve. As we're designing a simple valve amplifier we're going to use self bias. We know that there will be 250V across the valve and we need to bias the grid at -45V <i>relative to the cathode</i>. Ohm's law is our friend<br />
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voltage (volts) = current (amps) x resistance (ohms)</div>
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or</div>
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V = I x R</div>
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Rearranging Ohm's law gives us R = 45 / 0.060 = 750 ohms. The datasheet suggests 750 ohms, there's a surprise!<br />
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We also need to calculate the power rating of the resistor.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
power (watts) = current (amps) ^2 x resistance (ohms)</div>
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or</div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
P = I^2 x R</div>
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(Blogger doesn't seem to allow superscript for the squared term)<br />
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Which gives us P = 0.060^2 x 750 = 2.7W<br />
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But we must derate this as a 2.7W resistor (even if we could find such a thing) would burn up very quickly. Typically we derate by 3 to 5 times, so our 2.7W becomes 8.1W to 13.5W. Even at 3 x derating the resistor will get very hot and I prefer to go to 5 x if I can find something suitable. In this case I would go for at least 12W, maybe a nice Mills if you're feeling flush.<br />
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Our output stage is starting to take shape now. Under the cathode we have a 750 ohms 12W resistor which raises the potential at the cathode to 45V. As there's 250V across the valve (i.e. between the cathode and anode) there will be 250 + 45 = 295V at the anode.<br />
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<h4>
Cathode Resistor Bypass Capacitor</h4>
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If we don't use a capacitor to bypass the cathode resistor the stage will have lower distortion and higher headroom, but more importantly for an output stage it will have a small fraction of the gain. This is why common cathode stages usually have a cathode resistor bypass capacitor. Calculating the size is a little involved.<br />
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capacitance (farads) = 1 / (2 x pi x f-3 (hertz) x R (ohms))</div>
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or</div>
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C = 1 / (2 x pi x f-3 x R)</div>
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f-3 is the frequency at which bass will have rolled off by 3dB. 3dB represents a halving of the bass output in this case so we need to set f-3 somewhere below the frequency at which we want full bass output. If we want full bass output down to 40Hz, not unreasonable for an output stage, let's set f-3 at 20Hz.<br />
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R, unfortunately, isn't simply the value of the cathode resistor. It's actually the cathode resistor in parallel with the cathode resistance, rk.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
cathode resistance = (anode resistance + load resistance) / (amplification factor +1)</div>
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or</div>
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rk = (ra + Rl) / (mu + 1)</div>
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So rk = (800 + 2500) / (4.2 +1) = 3300 / 5.2 = 634.6 ohms<br />
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And therefore R = 1 / (1 / 634.6 + 1 / 750) = 344 ohms<br />
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Finally we can calculate the value of the cathode resistor's bypass capacitor<br />
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C = 1 / (2 x pi x f-3 x R) = 1 / (2 x 3.142 x 20 x 344) = 23.1uF. So we'd choose 22uF as it's a commonly available size. If you had a 47uf capacitor to hand then f-3 would be 10Hz. And 10uF would give a f-3 of 46Hz. I had a couple of 100uF capacitors handy so used those.<br />
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As you can see, if we had simply used the value of the cathode resistor, Rk, instead of R then we would have made the cathode bypass capacitor more than twice the size it actually needs to be.<br />
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As there's 45V at the cathode the capacitor needs to be rated higher than this. 50V is perhaps a little too close for my liking and I would choose at least a 63V rated capacitor and possibly 100V.<br />
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<h4>
Grid Leak Resistor</h4>
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We're nearly there now, just the grid leak resistor to specify. It's purpose is to tie the grid to ground and provide the cathode bias via the cathode resistor. The datasheet usually specifies a maximum value, in our case 500k ohms. Higher isn't necessarily better, but it can't be too low otherwise it would draw significant current and we want to keep the current draw under a milliamp. 100k is a reasonable value for the 2A3, and 1W should be more than enough as it should see very little current.<br />
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<h4>
Final Output Stage</h4>
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And here it is, our finished output stage. If you're wondering why there are two resistors between the cathode resistor and the cathode, this is in lieu of a humpot. A humpot allows any hum caused by AC heating of the valve to be minimised. But instead of a hum pot two resistors will put the cathode resistor at the centre of the potential difference between the two ends of the filament. In practice 2A3s are virtually hum free with decent construction of the amp and I've never felt the need for a hum pot.<br />
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In a later blog I'll look at design of the driver stage.SimonsNewAdventuresInHiFihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18135925051823781254noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1785499288157034309.post-32262848807069642222015-02-15T14:14:00.001-08:002015-02-15T14:14:09.721-08:00Alpair 12P MLTLs - Part 3Day 3 - 4 hours<br />
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Today was all about learning how to use the router guide and some large circle cutters. It was the first use for the router too, a £12 special from either Aldi or Lidl, I don't remember which. It's not worth thinking about how they managed to manufacture and ship it half way across the world for 12 quid, even when reduced to half price.<br />
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So, nearly 8 degrees C today.<br />
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First job was to finish off the remaining three braces including a light sand. I might just rout an arris around the internal edges later.<br />
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Rather than bodge some rather rough holes for the various bits and pieces that are to be mounted in the cabinets I wanted to make a proper job so used the template guide that came with the router. This of course means I need some hole templates, so I bought an adjustable hole cutter from Toolstation for 8 quid.<br />
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Decent ones look to be four times the price so I was a little wary about its quality. As I haven't used any others I can't compare, but it's a bit fiddly to set up (so might others) and though it reckons to cut up to a depth of 30mm I struggled to do much more than 3mm in mdf. The cutting tips are pointed, and once most of the point has entered the mdf the mdf started to burn.<br />
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Maybe more coarse materials would cut better but I simply flipped the mdf over and cut from the other side. The battery drill struggled a little to drive the cutters but it's a lot easier to hold. When I cut the larger holes for the 12Ps I think I'll probably need a mains drill.<br />
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Now to check to see if the template is the right size. I couldn't find much scrap wood, apart from a rather narrow piece, but it worked just fine. The template guide is shown on the underside of the router below.<br />
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The 6mm router cutter...<br />
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First pass of the router, about 6mm deep<br />
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After a couple of passes, 12mm ish<br />
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Three passes and done. There's a slight lip at the bottom around about a third of the circumference. I tried cleaning it up but the router didn't touch it so I must have managed to get a little bit of twist in the router. But it's not an issue because it will be covered. If I was going to use it anyway.<br />
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Pretty much perfect size, about 1mm larger than the speaker binding tray.<br />
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I cut two more templates, one for the ports and one for the "supertweeter" L pad attenuators. The port template produces a snug fit, maybe just too snug, another half millimeter clearance would be better I think. On the other hand the L pad attenuator was completely wrong and I had to cut another. Just shows how easy it is to get it wrong, and how important it is to check before assuming it's correct and ruining a precious piece of birch ply!SimonsNewAdventuresInHiFihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18135925051823781254noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1785499288157034309.post-82338721067882707192015-02-14T11:31:00.000-08:002015-02-15T09:54:48.530-08:00Alpair 12P MLTLs - Day 2Cabinet build - Part 2 (2 hours)<br />
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Just a short day today, only a couple of hours spare in the morning to play.<br />
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The next job is to cut the internal braces. The braces add a little stiffening, but perhaps more importantly they should help assembly by keeping the sides square and of equal width. One per cabinet would probably be enough but I had plenty of spare mdf so cut two per cabinet.<br />
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Then a quick trial fit with the front and back and a single side. The braces were a pretty good fit, only one needing just a little easing.<br />
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Meanwhile on temperature watch we have a heady 7 degrees C today :-).<br />
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Once cut, the braces need the middles removing. Four holes cut with a 19mm wood drill bit in the corners first, and then the rest removed with a jigsaw.<br />
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And that's all there was time for.<br />
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<br />SimonsNewAdventuresInHiFihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18135925051823781254noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1785499288157034309.post-46528067408807097432015-02-01T11:22:00.004-08:002015-02-01T11:22:47.644-08:00Alpair 12P MLTLs Part 1<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I've had a pair of <a href="http://www.markaudio.com/component/k2/itemlist/category/31-Raw-Drivers" target="_blank">Alpair 12P</a>s for well over a year now which have been "running in" in the <a href="http://simonsnewadventuresinhifi.blogspot.co.uk/search/label/Quasars" target="_blank">Quasars</a>. But the intention has always been to build a pair of MLTLs in an attempt at domestic compromise. It's a design by <a href="http://www.wodendesign.com/" target="_blank">Scott Lindgren</a> which he very kindly allowed me to use. Thanks also to Colin Topps for his invaluable advice, particularly on routing techniques.<br />
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The 12Ps are a nice driver with a decent if not stellar 92dB sensitivity and a well balanced sound. For a wide band driver they have a well judged frequency compromise and reports of this MLTL cabinet suggest there is good bass. But the 12Ps do roll off about 12k Hz which I find audible, missing that little bit of sparkle, so I'm going to use a little bit of support above this frequency.<br />
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Cabinet build - Day 1 (4 hours)<br />
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Starting the build on the last day in January is perhaps not the most sensible time as it was a little chilly, a heady 3.5 degrees C. Fortunately I was out of the wind at least. (The thermometer reads 5 degrees C too high. My better half never really liked it, which is why it's relegated to the garage, but whenever I look at it I think of beautiful Seville, from whence it came.)<br />
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So here's the starting pile of wood, a single sheet of 2440mm x 1220mm x 18mm solid birch ply.<br />
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I took the easy road and got the timber yard to convert the sheet for me to my cutting plan. The upside is it saved me a whole lot of effort for a tenner, the downside is I didn't get to control the cutting. 4 no. fronts and backs at the rear, 4 no. sides in front, 4 no. tops and bottoms to the left, and some bits left over to the right which I might use to thicken the base up.<br />
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Examining the fronts and backs I wasn't particularly happy as there were the odd marks on the faces, a couple of well filled but unsightly knots, and quite a lot of the grain had been ripped out by the saw cutting across the grain of the exterior plies. Still, no going back now, just pick the best compromise and get on with it!</div>
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The front baffles need thickening up with a second piece - this improves the rigidity of the baffle but is also required because the depth of the rebate to suit the 12Ps would leave precious little of the thickness left to attach the driver to. In an ideal world I would probably have used more birch ply but I had some 18mm thick mdf offcuts and wasn't about to spend another £55 on a second sheet of birch ply. It probably makes little difference to the sound anyway.<br />
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I drilled and countersunk the secondary baffle then brushed on some plenty of pva, perhaps too much...<br />
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And then clamped the first edge together and fixed some screws to hold the two pieces together, then turned them around to clamp and screw the opposite side. Perhaps just a little too much pva. But better than not enough I guess. I took quite a bit of care to ensure the screws didn't damage the fronts, but even so I was a little nervous until I was able to examine them later to put my mind at rest.<br />
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Both baffles completed and left to dry after quite a bit of repeated mopping up of squeezed out glue. Really the glue needs to dry overnight, and preferably 24 hours. And be a bit warmer.<br />
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It was about 6pm when I finished by which time it had reached a balmy 5 degrees C. Hopefully it'll be a bit warmer the next time!<br />
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<br />SimonsNewAdventuresInHiFihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18135925051823781254noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1785499288157034309.post-69355421826828991692014-09-06T05:59:00.003-07:002014-09-27T13:00:07.800-07:00Coleman Regulators Part 2 - GM70<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Rather a long time ago now I posted about Rod Coleman's <a href="http://simonsnewadventuresinhifi.blogspot.co.uk/2013/12/coleman-regulators-gm70.html" target="_blank">filament regulators</a> which I use for heating GM70s (and other DHTs). They're an excellent solution but they do require a decent raw DC supply which is worth writing about. I had intended to do this some time ago but audio has very much been on a back burner whilst other priorities (like work and the garden) have occupied me. Above is my implementation of Rod's suggested choke input supply.<br />
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At the time of writing Rod has a "preliminary" <a href="http://lyrima.co.uk/dhtreg/dhtRegIntro.html" target="_blank">website</a> for his filament modules, though it's due an update soon apparently. I guess I ought to say that I have no connection to Rod and have never even met or spoken with him. I'm very happy with his modules though, and his support and advice have been super. Indeed much of my scribblings here are a distilling of Rod's advice over the months and years.<br />
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So where to start? Fortunately Rod supplies suggestions for raw DC supplies for his modules, both his usual capacitor input power supply and a choke input power supply. They both do a similar job, but each has its pros and cons.<br />
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Here's Rod's basic circuit for the capacitor input supply, with thanks to Rod for permitting me to use it.<br />
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Note the trafo only needs to be rated for 21V but a whopping 7.1A because it's capacitor input. Here's a <a href="http://www.sowter.co.uk/rectifier-transformer-calculation.htm" target="_blank">handy page</a> on <a href="http://www.sowter.co.uk/" target="_blank">Sowter</a>'s website on rectification. (And here's <a href="http://www.hammondmfg.com/pdf/5c007.pdf" target="_blank">another</a> on <a href="http://www.hammondmfg.com/5cindex.htm" target="_blank">Hammond</a>'s website.) Rod recommends we should be shooting for a nominal 25V raw DC to feed the modules (24.3V minimum, 28V maximum).<br />
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Looking at the second circuit on the Sowter page, in simplistic terms for 25V on the secondary we need a trafo rated at 25 x 0.71 = 17.75V. Great! That's less volts than we need. Well, sadly, the laws of the universe (and physics) dictate that we don't get something for nothing. We need a maximum DC current rating of 3.3A, so the current rating of the trafo needs to be at least 3.3 x 1.61 = 5.31A. Ouch. So in ball park terms the GM70 will consume 17.75 x 5.31 = 94W (or 94VA). A general recommendation is to derate by at least a factor of 2, so the trafo for each GM70 should be in the region of 188VA. Nobody said big SET amps were cheap!<br />
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Here's Rod's basic circuit for the choke input supply.<br />
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The trafo now needs a higher voltage rating, but lower current rating. Using the fourth circuit on the Sowter page, voltage = 25 x 1.11 = 27.75V, current = 3.3 x 1.06 = 3.50A, power = 2 x 27.75 x 3.50 = 194VA.<br />
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So perhaps unsurprisingly the trafo does the same amount of work whether capacitor or choke input is used. So which to use? Well, it's personal choice, but there are some other factors which are worth considering.<br />
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Following the trafo are the diode rectifiers. As the trafos have different secondary voltage ratings depending on whether capacitor or choke input the diodes will be at different potentials. Here are the outputs from Rod's <a href="http://www.duncanamps.com/psud2/index.html" target="_blank">PSUD</a> files with voltage across the diodes (yellow) and final raw DC supply to the filament reg modules (red), first for capacitor input<br />
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and second for choke input<br />
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Unsurprisingly the choke input supply will need diodes with a higher voltage rating. Fortunately diodes aren't hugely expensive in comparison to the other items. Schottky types are preferred as they don't have the switching noise that other types have meaning there's less noise on the supply, which is a good thing.<br />
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Next in the circuit is a capacitor or resistor, depending on the supply. Let's concentrate on the capacitor input supply first. Here's Rod's power supply, this time showing current.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXF_dP4EbbDEErLQsc6V3RVbkGaZwXmlf_Xq3iogRtc5o6s_js3kUcbrHcQsBtHz7L4_FCC2tC_iCPszzVPMKFzTcjx38zNbP-ynTSS1IZiPF0AOwmtgYFVcl2_5LAyGDCCWvq6gtaFfE/s1600/GM70+cap+input+current.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXF_dP4EbbDEErLQsc6V3RVbkGaZwXmlf_Xq3iogRtc5o6s_js3kUcbrHcQsBtHz7L4_FCC2tC_iCPszzVPMKFzTcjx38zNbP-ynTSS1IZiPF0AOwmtgYFVcl2_5LAyGDCCWvq6gtaFfE/s1600/GM70+cap+input+current.PNG" height="450" width="640" /></a></div>
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There's a LOT of ripple in the first capacitor, between -4A to 12A, so 16A. So the capacitor needs a big current ripple rating, and might even need to be shared by two or three parallelled capacitors.<br />
<br />
Rod pointed <a href="http://uk.farnell.com/bhc-components/als30a153db040/cap-alu-elec-15000uf-40v-screw/dp/471446" target="_blank">these</a> 15000uF 40V 9.5A ripple BHC monsters out to me - they look a good option to simplify the number of components in the power supply if the ripple is high. And they might even be a visual match for any Cerafines, Mundorfs, JJs or WKZs you might be using for your HT power supply.<br />
<br />
Here's the choke input version<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsGMK2r3MCYcq1m_HhmP1LQqnsChIVaZw8UvmQ-eFNopAvFy-ftr2NC7CSbreuRGbB7nJ0sKJxf3UcjgcV0GsIkTNql5A-TWUGAIgqT1X1SF_RYqn9puPuhrNtpqF8pa3M5_wpmllviWI/s1600/GM70+choke+input+current.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsGMK2r3MCYcq1m_HhmP1LQqnsChIVaZw8UvmQ-eFNopAvFy-ftr2NC7CSbreuRGbB7nJ0sKJxf3UcjgcV0GsIkTNql5A-TWUGAIgqT1X1SF_RYqn9puPuhrNtpqF8pa3M5_wpmllviWI/s1600/GM70+choke+input+current.PNG" height="448" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
Okay, the curves showing current through the diodes and first cap aren't as pretty but look how much smaller the peak current is: 6A rather than 16A. That's a huge difference when it comes to specifying capacitors.<br />
<br />
The smaller current in the first capacitor of a choke input supply is because the choke has had a beneficial effect on smoothing the ripple (it actually stores charge). Technically,<span style="font-family: inherit;"> the conduction-angle is longer as the choke stores energy during the lower amplitude portions of the mains sinusoid waveform.</span><br />
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Rod has shown a resistor before the first capacitor, and the choke before the second capacitor in the second filter stage and I presume this is because the choke would need to have a rather large current rating. Chokes with (relatively speaking) large inductance, high current rating, and low DC resistance are very large, very expensive, and very difficult to find. By using a resistor first a sensibly sized choke can be used, in this case a Hammond 159ZJ. The choke also has the benefit of filtering some of the spikes that can be present on a supply.<br />
<br />
When I first saw the 0.001 ohm resistor I was a little surprised as I thought it was so small that the supply might act as a capacitor input anyway, but it didn't. The only 0.001R resistors available at my usual suppliers were crazy money so I parallelled two 0.01R to give 0.005R. Sounds like quite a difference, it is a factor of 5 after all. The 0.005R resistor drops 0.0272V more than the 0.001R resistor. There are bigger issues to concentrate on.<br />
<br />
Having written all the above, there is another way to provide a raw DC supply and some of my friends have used SMPS power supplies to good effect. If you can find the right voltage and current rating, and they're reliable, they can be a cost effective solution. Indeed some of my friends just use SMPS supplies as a DC supply, and to be fair sound better that I thought they should. But SMPS are known to have a lot of (radiated) noise which can affect the sound unless they are an appropriate distance from the signal part of the amp (>2m).<br />
<br />
There is a further issue Rod warned me of. Rather than risk diluting his thoughts by paraphrasing these are Rod's words:<br />
<br />
<i><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">"The "off-line" (i.e. mains input) SMPS have loads of capacitance bridging primary-to-secondary, in order to meet statutory EMI regulations. This leads to leakage current from primary (mains) to secondary. Regardless of any regulator, the leakage current, which has LF and broadband noise components, will pass to safety earth through the filament, through the cathode resistor (if present) and into the B+ supply circuit and onward to earth.</span></i><br />
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><i><br /></i>
<i>This leakage current varies is size wildly according to the quality of the supply. Only in Medical-grade SMPS is it really small (1uA level). The current should be compared with the Anode Current not the filament current, since it will mix directly with the returning current in the cathode. So a noisy 100uA can wreak havoc if you consider that the music signal might only be a few mA typically. Also, the HF noise-current will return to earth through a low impedance path, and this risks re-radiation into signal wiring etc.</i></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><i><br /></i>
<i>Next, the SMPS is usually built to a cost, and the stress on parts is high. Filament supplies run 100% load, at all times, so de-rating is needed. But even then, I expect the lifetime is not great, and the degradation is the electrolytics may worsen noise before they expire."</i></span><br />
<br />
So you can try them if you feel lucky but for my money Rod's filament modules give our DHTs the best chance. And mine sure sound good - they're fit and forget.<br />
<br />
So, taking all the above into account I went with a choke input supply. Using the PSUD circuit below, these were my component choices.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPhfBWC53WtCWP-Ti5rjhpzGq1_VOVEup9O_9bg0OjURG4lwvMgJfy3GBqVvdJFopjUl5Fa7hgFLJmcETRmlyouLrk1RAUsDH35ej80PJod4lipNVMdAeuEbCJGzhztDcORfhUXmhTqos/s1600/choke+input+raw+DC+circuit+crop.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPhfBWC53WtCWP-Ti5rjhpzGq1_VOVEup9O_9bg0OjURG4lwvMgJfy3GBqVvdJFopjUl5Fa7hgFLJmcETRmlyouLrk1RAUsDH35ej80PJod4lipNVMdAeuEbCJGzhztDcORfhUXmhTqos/s1600/choke+input+raw+DC+circuit+crop.png" height="292" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
The trafo uses a Hammond 185F28 which is 14V or 28V depending on whether the secondaries are connected in parallel or series. I got mine from everyone's favourite Hammond supplier Philip Ramsey at <a href="http://www.bluebellaudio.com/" target="_blank">Bluebell Audio</a>. <br />
<br />
Next are the diodes and I used 100V 10A rated Schottky. Don't be tempted to parallel diodes with smaller current ratings as they will switch on and off at fractionally different times which could lead to premature failure. The heat dissipation of the diodes is marginal without any heatsinking so I mounted them on a small piece of aluminium angle, but the amp chassis would probably be more than adequate. Don't forget to isolate each diode if they're conductive. <span style="font-family: inherit;">A benefit of choke input, with its lower RMS current, is lower stress on the rectifiers so they should run cooler too.</span><br />
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<br /></div>
Then comes the 0.001R resistor, or in my case two 0.01R resistors parallelled. Looking at PSUD again, the resistor passes nearly 7A so each resistor could pass 3.5A. Therefore the power in each is 0.01 x 3.5 = 0.035W. Even derating by between three to five times is not a lot, around 1/8W, so I used whatever I could find that was cheap! Which turned out to be a massive 3W!<br />
<br />
And now the first capacitor, C1. I didn't want to split an order across more than one supplier so the best compromise I could find was to parallel two 4.7uF 160V MKP 1839 polypropylene capacitors.<br />
<br />
Next the choke, a Hammond 159ZJ, again from Bluebell Audio. A reassuringly heavy unit, though it is only rated at 10mH.<br />
<br />
Finally the last capacitor. I parallelled two Panasonic TS-UP 22000uF 35V electrolytics.<br />
<br />
And finally, finally. I added a snubbing network across the secondary of the trafo, a 100nF capacitor and 47R resistor in series. It doesn't matter which way round they're connected. The optimum values need to be evaluated on test with a scope and test equipment, but Rod reckons 100nF and 47R are good enough in most applications so that will do for me.<br />
<br />
And it works well. The voltage range of the reg is only just above 20V so in an ideal world I would prefer a few more volts out of the raw DC supply, so maybe a 30V secondary rather than 28V would be better. But then you'd probably need to get a custom trafo wound.<br />
<br />
And this is what GM70s look like when heated. On the left a graphite plate, and on the right a copper plate. The photo doesn't really do the beauty of the copper full justice...<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXyuN6i_LgJ-msl2xPzUu5KBgJ9S6e2HkcfoCDRiVihTumWb_GAI0HXTNt2xUbvY1wBpvSa3TAi36SFhmVfb8ES63TPnkocyUgPQBMO8vmCNLNIAXT8ZPzQH94SaYJ7ElwhZq1y-aFp8k/s1600/GM70+L+graphite+R+copper.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXyuN6i_LgJ-msl2xPzUu5KBgJ9S6e2HkcfoCDRiVihTumWb_GAI0HXTNt2xUbvY1wBpvSa3TAi36SFhmVfb8ES63TPnkocyUgPQBMO8vmCNLNIAXT8ZPzQH94SaYJ7ElwhZq1y-aFp8k/s1600/GM70+L+graphite+R+copper.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
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And here's a close up of the copper plate GM70<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSA5A12AKv3xRrZQzG_93F2rUYP_fNpeHNBBWSiVi_YaeseZCsJfeYHPWjsrEQofZ65qfsNfiz_CkvSwD1fxDvBwBspGxsFMiRmww8Zup9X-cZ6eFwWbIkFOFbrtdexXZnJouwgoN9RLA/s1600/copper+GM70.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSA5A12AKv3xRrZQzG_93F2rUYP_fNpeHNBBWSiVi_YaeseZCsJfeYHPWjsrEQofZ65qfsNfiz_CkvSwD1fxDvBwBspGxsFMiRmww8Zup9X-cZ6eFwWbIkFOFbrtdexXZnJouwgoN9RLA/s1600/copper+GM70.JPG" height="640" width="480" /></a></div>
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SimonsNewAdventuresInHiFihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18135925051823781254noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1785499288157034309.post-61704715736535458992014-02-24T12:47:00.000-08:002014-02-24T12:47:18.013-08:00Quasar CrossoversChristmas rather got in the way but the inductors and capacitors for the <a href="http://simonsnewadventuresinhifi.blogspot.co.uk/2013/12/quasars-open-baffles-par-excellence.html" target="_blank">Quasar</a> crossovers finally arrived. A rather reassuringly heavy package turned up from <a href="http://www.hificollective.co.uk/" target="_blank">Hi Fi Collective</a> with two Mundorf 6.8mH air cored inductors and two Mundorf 150uF Evo capacitors.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTOrrSsoks05LD2tI6vhow5Ky-rvZcvaegiLuLvSnGfeOkjzmnCMgeQdLbqgjm7ehTPHoyUgBbdVQx67Hy0vD6INPhH3MXoW4c2ffBcdbOAkop8hknUgr7YzT6q6kjWr9P8_laYG_2Mro/s1600/20140127_182749crop.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTOrrSsoks05LD2tI6vhow5Ky-rvZcvaegiLuLvSnGfeOkjzmnCMgeQdLbqgjm7ehTPHoyUgBbdVQx67Hy0vD6INPhH3MXoW4c2ffBcdbOAkop8hknUgr7YzT6q6kjWr9P8_laYG_2Mro/s1600/20140127_182749crop.jpg" height="534" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />
The series crossover is an integral part of the Quasar design, crossing over the drivers around 150Hz. This removes the bass frequencies from the wide band driver (which can only be a good thing) and limits the bass helper to the bass notes. The series crossover does some nice things compared to a parallel crossover too.<br />
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So this is James' suggested design for my Fostex 208E sigmas<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt8S6LDtp8GHxKwT-dBcCSLkHhVx-GLaeMmqmZZa4JLQpdVHg-oO1QatoQVFxntANiue5g-apqa-y08qyCyvYYcPaLf3Z18heqUiyvnZyZShu5aNLW5aVo_6tj7nY20ZdAzcrYg8HU6g4/s1600/F208+EZ+Quasar+Filter.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt8S6LDtp8GHxKwT-dBcCSLkHhVx-GLaeMmqmZZa4JLQpdVHg-oO1QatoQVFxntANiue5g-apqa-y08qyCyvYYcPaLf3Z18heqUiyvnZyZShu5aNLW5aVo_6tj7nY20ZdAzcrYg8HU6g4/s1600/F208+EZ+Quasar+Filter.png" height="600" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />
And as I intend to use the 208s eventually, this is the design I used to buy the bits. Fortunately the values are near enough for the Alpair 12Ps I'm currently using too. So without too much thought I soldered the inductor and capacitor together, along with a resistor to drop the efficiency of the Supravox bass helper a touch and clipleaded to the drivers.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidxYDWV9M4cU5E6fLGykTi-rCuVhqasjk9trRv2MIiC5kKk30vuRd2UmokCqYs6tLuamBrkwxu9XVQqdO6Ozne6XE-bixbkVwYEeEh7TOEBzg9w0mjXWLyG4B0Oe4G6xXqjqdTeMKwxLk/s1600/20140127_185122crop.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidxYDWV9M4cU5E6fLGykTi-rCuVhqasjk9trRv2MIiC5kKk30vuRd2UmokCqYs6tLuamBrkwxu9XVQqdO6Ozne6XE-bixbkVwYEeEh7TOEBzg9w0mjXWLyG4B0Oe4G6xXqjqdTeMKwxLk/s1600/20140127_185122crop.jpg" height="420" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdbSMipm2VdJusN4IuD-Whwt_Sj0YJWDqEWQ2eEr5ntL_LYoSZ7FK67o1rBNbnyzEavAMPBIH_kfavaId1C6W75KTkHp9bW5wMi-l7BGuOzzwnKVhhEVNfk_MSpgkTXqorgqioNRzqT8o/s1600/20140127_185622crop.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdbSMipm2VdJusN4IuD-Whwt_Sj0YJWDqEWQ2eEr5ntL_LYoSZ7FK67o1rBNbnyzEavAMPBIH_kfavaId1C6W75KTkHp9bW5wMi-l7BGuOzzwnKVhhEVNfk_MSpgkTXqorgqioNRzqT8o/s1600/20140127_185622crop.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></div>
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<br />
I wasn't expecting much of an improvement, but was rather surprised by how much things cleaned up. Before, I was running the Supravox full frequency, so rolling off about 5kHz, and using a 6uF PIO capacitor to roll the 12P off at about 4kHz. And it sounded great. There was a bit of a muddle which I put down to the band between 4kHz and 5kHz where both drivers were operating, but the clarity of the 12Ps shone through, and the underpinning of the 285s was firm and taught.<br />
<br />
With the proper crossover in place the muddle disappeared which helped to clean the sound up quite significantly. Not only did the muddle go, but the overall detail improved as the 12P was running lower and seems a touch more articulate than the 285 above the bass helper frequencies.<br />
<br />
But then James reminded me he'd designed a parallel crossover for the 12P as his experience with the original Alpair 12 wasn't good with a series crossover. Mark Fenlon does suggest that the 12s need as clean a supply as possible. So I changed the components around for the parallel crossover below and reconnected the clipleads.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh09JNTZ1-B0C5l0Rh69g2YXE3olQHiqn5psr_B4SP3EUJnIdsrcdJZABahzo8tWrA9NO9Lc56rwZbDiNwJOHvxLxe_ycBXovdE2MndL1SCAq_4gjiDvJaPaCyF807TXbG433Fg8MYqhOA/s1600/Alpair+12p+Quasar+Filter.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh09JNTZ1-B0C5l0Rh69g2YXE3olQHiqn5psr_B4SP3EUJnIdsrcdJZABahzo8tWrA9NO9Lc56rwZbDiNwJOHvxLxe_ycBXovdE2MndL1SCAq_4gjiDvJaPaCyF807TXbG433Fg8MYqhOA/s1600/Alpair+12p+Quasar+Filter.png" height="514" width="640" /></a></div>
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I wasn't sure what to expect, and didn't think it would make any difference in all honesty. Well, it's early days but I think there is a change. At first I thought there was a little less punch and dynamics, and possibly a little more sibilance. The more I listen though the more detail I can hear coming from the 12Ps. I need to listen over a longer period but I think I can hear greater subtlety and tone with the parallel crossover. Just shows how small differences can have an effect.SimonsNewAdventuresInHiFihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18135925051823781254noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1785499288157034309.post-90868080938573237792013-12-15T15:26:00.002-08:002014-02-24T12:49:23.247-08:00Coleman Regulators - GM70<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Heating of directly heated filaments is a much discussed subject.
Unlike indirectly heated valves directly heated filaments are a whole
lot more picky about how they're warmed up as they are directly in the
signal path. And they have a tendency to hum (and the more power they
consume the more they want to hum).<br />
<br />
Many swear by AC
believing it's more natural; there's less circuitry in the signal path,
and it's cheaper on hardware too. Others believe that DC is the only way
to go - not only should it remove any hum but it's cleaner too removing
the harmonic fringes of the 50Hz AC (or 60Hz depending on where you
live).<br />
<br />
But even in the DC camp there are different ways
to go. You could try passive DC with lots of high current chokes and big
capacitors, and LCL is said to sound the best and means there isn't a
whacking great electrolytic cap strapped across the filament. It's not
so easy to set the voltage though.<br />
<br />
Or you could try a
current source (leave the voltage sources for your indirectly heated
valves). These can be fairly simple, or fairly complicated. Fortunately
there are some options available if you want to have a go but don't know
how to design a good one. If you want a ready made option then the <a href="http://www.tentlabs.com/Products/Tubeamp/Tubefilament/index.html" target="_blank">Tentlabs</a> modules will do the job admirably. <a href="http://www.diyhifisupply.com/opcart/" target="_blank">DIY Hi Fi Supply</a>
used to have their own modules too, but they look to have stopped
making them. Anyway, just wire 'em up, set the voltage by twiddling a
screwdriver and away you go.<br />
<br />
Or if you like to build stuff
(and save a few quid) then another option is Rod Coleman's regulators.
Rod has been developing his modules for the best part of a decade now
I'd guess and has been supplying them for maybe three years. Send him
some money and you'll get a compact PCB and all the components to
populate it, plus instructions to build and test them. You just need to
supply a raw DC power supply, and advice is given in the instructions.
Rod is contactable by PM on the <a href="http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/tubes-valves/" target="_blank">DIYAudio forum</a>.<br />
<br />
I've built
three pairs of Rod's modules before for my 26-10Y-300BXLS monster and
each one improved the sound over the passive DC I was using before. So
when I finally started the GM70 amp I'd been meaning to build for about
three years it was an obvious "fit and forget" choice to build a pair of
Rod's modules again. And here's a series of photos of the build
sequence.<br />
<br />
First I like to lay out all the bits, check them off, and mark them up with which component they are <br />
<br />
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So start with the bare board </div>
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And then the smallest components first - the resistors. And then the first capacitor.</div>
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Then the variable resistor used to set the voltage<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPBrbTB7Cbw8dibmZIRWv86fq5dMgL9pUo14chJuvjliaXcMCdjOoLmmnnsSy4crvoC81STC-0E_AVzXnxMColWsmpogXeWb39gF5ACTOpDUksrJLLPq-Ed6J9CQgytYlw5pXtTlgvt9M/s1600/20130717_190140+(Custom).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPBrbTB7Cbw8dibmZIRWv86fq5dMgL9pUo14chJuvjliaXcMCdjOoLmmnnsSy4crvoC81STC-0E_AVzXnxMColWsmpogXeWb39gF5ACTOpDUksrJLLPq-Ed6J9CQgytYlw5pXtTlgvt9M/s640/20130717_190140+(Custom).jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
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Then the first two transistors, to the same height as the variable resistor<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgs-41Xy9_eFHcrjXdsd14QtRfJlBXGmAd_BHKWAMgxHe2b_eC4cu4Xtn3KO8mjHW2huupjuMd0UNHCr7G2404aZxjLFpy2crLT9ldd1t0JClflReOzl3R4b7GAxHEuc1rwl274y2ynsUM/s1600/20130717_190557+(Custom).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgs-41Xy9_eFHcrjXdsd14QtRfJlBXGmAd_BHKWAMgxHe2b_eC4cu4Xtn3KO8mjHW2huupjuMd0UNHCr7G2404aZxjLFpy2crLT9ldd1t0JClflReOzl3R4b7GAxHEuc1rwl274y2ynsUM/s640/20130717_190557+(Custom).jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
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Next the second capacitor<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifOG9txHbd3-cN5tUCjbZBVkK7LxdWb8FbKXkD38-mMC2waTXrgyH0h6XQFuh3rSobY6dlJF2q1-EiI1eYdm2dgQb_hT46eOWZTcmwBddH6Ive8H8J3e3pGo2qHOvWVr1N-35WRCZtu1k/s1600/20130717_190751+(Custom).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifOG9txHbd3-cN5tUCjbZBVkK7LxdWb8FbKXkD38-mMC2waTXrgyH0h6XQFuh3rSobY6dlJF2q1-EiI1eYdm2dgQb_hT46eOWZTcmwBddH6Ive8H8J3e3pGo2qHOvWVr1N-35WRCZtu1k/s640/20130717_190751+(Custom).jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
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Then the third of the transistors, again to the height of the variable resistor and adjacent capacitor<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWbwUqzU_APY2PrRFGN9bMmtsMyhuU7Gsl4Hw8qYlgBn4qc4SgJ7JblQRrC0OJam_AO0quS5k9EOxJUrERpJ52OnA_-DJnlFhPlkQjcnhz2_5da7NA3LIz0gBvvjDkD_zC0Hx-qBpxd5k/s1600/20130717_190953+(Custom).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWbwUqzU_APY2PrRFGN9bMmtsMyhuU7Gsl4Hw8qYlgBn4qc4SgJ7JblQRrC0OJam_AO0quS5k9EOxJUrERpJ52OnA_-DJnlFhPlkQjcnhz2_5da7NA3LIz0gBvvjDkD_zC0Hx-qBpxd5k/s640/20130717_190953+(Custom).jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
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Next the thermister which stabilises the current temperature (in position R11) (note that only the higher current GM70-type modules use these)<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjytZ7nMtokiQLx9MXC1xoUyaDxqY8Th7CJzX-goyaHmxdN4DTpSX4JWzpKTvwKqQrZQQU1K2fY9AIcw7a981r3s7wb59cla3yqh5gBX4xtObAotvO3onfk0CXhq5yMoVx7ZX-P1fi_IA/s1600/20130717_191158+(Custom).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjytZ7nMtokiQLx9MXC1xoUyaDxqY8Th7CJzX-goyaHmxdN4DTpSX4JWzpKTvwKqQrZQQU1K2fY9AIcw7a981r3s7wb59cla3yqh5gBX4xtObAotvO3onfk0CXhq5yMoVx7ZX-P1fi_IA/s640/20130717_191158+(Custom).jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
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Then I add the sense resistors as I prefer to mount the two 3 legged chips when I assemble the heatsink. I find this the best way for me to get a good job, but it is a bit fiddly soldering the chips as access is a bit tight. Note that the resistors need to be stood off the board by at least 14mm as they get very hot.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHxw96zQ7fyhPL_mx8jBclvBpGSWswDVU_MxLdfF534aT9LlQMWeyCie6s_XBtMEfXztBMWjyUwJsBD9op-LBx-HyKtE_nAwJ2mp3Qrs8zbtJgmA-C0N-aWCIpzkQ3Q7RMt1BfN4YAOCw/s1600/20130717_191401+(Custom).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHxw96zQ7fyhPL_mx8jBclvBpGSWswDVU_MxLdfF534aT9LlQMWeyCie6s_XBtMEfXztBMWjyUwJsBD9op-LBx-HyKtE_nAwJ2mp3Qrs8zbtJgmA-C0N-aWCIpzkQ3Q7RMt1BfN4YAOCw/s640/20130717_191401+(Custom).jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
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So here's the module mounted on the heatsink - a piece of aluminium angle with the PCB connected by standoffs. Note the use of mica insulators as the higher current regulators need insulating. Make sure you use some thermal paste on both sides of the micas - I didn't have any to hand at the time but retrofitted later. Note also a zener fitted across the chip pins, a little fiddly to solder. This is some added protection in case the valve isn't plugged in when the power is turned on.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgooK4HdEs9LJwd6zHLdHg0uu3JsDWjRhkuGRQpVoEjXdoxUYW-idq4HKtuBkcVKMVyVyqmVkD9F4CorPjb2G8o78tcZwRTknLPaLI-5XLOyVBPqxchCDjd3eJQel_7LNDGcKXF-qJebDY/s1600/20130730_184356+(Custom).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgooK4HdEs9LJwd6zHLdHg0uu3JsDWjRhkuGRQpVoEjXdoxUYW-idq4HKtuBkcVKMVyVyqmVkD9F4CorPjb2G8o78tcZwRTknLPaLI-5XLOyVBPqxchCDjd3eJQel_7LNDGcKXF-qJebDY/s640/20130730_184356+(Custom).jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
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And here's the finished module with additional heatsink. As I breadboard I like to use them as self contained modules, which is why I mount them on the aluminium angle. If I ever do get around to putting them in a box they can then be mounted to the metal chassis for additional heatsinking. The finned heatsink does a very good job of taking the heat away from the regs and I intend to mount the heatsink above the chassis eventually. (The heatsinks I bought in Japan for about a quid each...)<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggvuX_IFHOvZH4Lj2Nx-fQdFT83dOslKycgTU7BhXPfMaY_Eltr_o0w-7sGFlvAqoxE0BW4BF7xD5JmYBu-FY65JrF3KYzE_1dnPaNcBKElWAwkWsE8oizukxxzC_5y5k8-U10-q4CerM/s1600/20130730_185351+(Custom).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggvuX_IFHOvZH4Lj2Nx-fQdFT83dOslKycgTU7BhXPfMaY_Eltr_o0w-7sGFlvAqoxE0BW4BF7xD5JmYBu-FY65JrF3KYzE_1dnPaNcBKElWAwkWsE8oizukxxzC_5y5k8-U10-q4CerM/s640/20130730_185351+(Custom).jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
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Here are the two regs in service. Rod supplies instructions on how to test and commission the regs, and as you can see from the DMM it's easy enough to set the voltage. I like to set it just under the nominal voltage and backed it off just a little from the voltage shown.<br />
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You might just be able make out the additional capacitor across the raw DC supply - this is a 1000uF cap that decouples the reg from its power supply when connected by longer wires, if it's in a separate chassis for instance. This is a rather nice amp I have to say, one I should write about some time.<br />
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<br />SimonsNewAdventuresInHiFihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18135925051823781254noreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1785499288157034309.post-9010903918154902372013-12-10T14:30:00.000-08:002014-02-24T12:50:11.651-08:00Quasars - Open Baffles Par Excellence<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLW2X43WKk3nn7wDDvxycb9cjYzK7-bzW93szFcI_6ZJK3Y8bTxrgXRowPo0hhesBGOWhE0YGoOAv1D93UP5gO9pW7GbIHrt-DbpGpvGQqa11b6K2HQ2J01a2wLC14SdYY7nimgEBHdEQ/s1600/Quasar+Prototypes+(Custom).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLW2X43WKk3nn7wDDvxycb9cjYzK7-bzW93szFcI_6ZJK3Y8bTxrgXRowPo0hhesBGOWhE0YGoOAv1D93UP5gO9pW7GbIHrt-DbpGpvGQqa11b6K2HQ2J01a2wLC14SdYY7nimgEBHdEQ/s640/Quasar+Prototypes+(Custom).jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
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Okay, okay, it's time I wrote about some proper DIY audio, enough shirking and flattering to deceive. And if you're thinking "he's a bit full of himself - first blog about DIY and he's telling us how wonderful his stuff is" then you'll be relieved/disappointed to know that I make no claims to progeny of these speakers at all. No, speakers are not my "thing". These open baffles are the design of James Doddington and we are fortunate as a community that he has been happy to share his design. Mine are fairly rough prototypes, but these are James' own speakers<br />
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The drivers are fullrange AER Mk 1s which cross over around 150Hz to <a href="http://www.supravox.fr/anglais/haut_parleurs/285_GMF.htm" target="_blank">Supravox 285GMF</a> bass helpers. Both are very nice drivers and not cheap either, though the AERs are no longer available.<br />
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James has spent a long time fine tuning the shape of the baffles. By their nature baffles need a large surface area for low bass notes, even allowing for the pi/2 effect of using the floor. The shape of James' baffles use the cardiod effect to improve bass response for the given size, down to 40Hz. Nevertheless these are still large speakers at 1350mm high and 420mm wide. The size is the downside of baffles, but the upside is the lack of boxy honky colourations that cabinets usually have, and well built baffles shouldn't.<br />
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Whereas I used yucky 18mm thick MDF for my prototype build James' finished articles use 20mm thick perspex which being see through minimises the visual intrusion compared to wood. The front baffle is shaped, the sides of varying depth and the base profiled as they all enhance the sonics. There's some discussion too as to whether the perspex enhances the sound too. Here's the dimensions of James' Quasars.<br />
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In comparison my prototypes are an easy build. The front baffle is flat and 450mm wide x 1350mm tall sloped back at 5 degrees, the base is 500mm deep, and the sides are a simple triangle. It's important that the joins are all air tight. Sadly two baffles won't come out of a single sheet 2400mm x 1200mm, but spare MDF is always handy. The bass helper is mounted approximately 100mm above the base, and the full range driver at 750mm.<br />
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The crossover is usually a series one as this offers benefits over parallel. It's fairly simple, or rather there are few components: an inductor, a large polypropylene capacitor, a much smaller paper in oil capacitor to bypass the PP and bring back a little tone, and likely a resistor to balance the relative efficiencies of the two drivers. The inductor wire benefits from a cross sectional area of 2.5mm^2 as this minimises the DCR of the coil, though smaller diameters will work.<br />
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Currently I have a pair of <a href="http://www.markaudio.com/component/k2/itemlist/category/31-Raw-Drivers" target="_blank">Alpair 12Ps</a> mounted as they're new and I thought I might as well run them in in the new baffles. My intention is to make some MLTLs for the 12Ps and use my Fostex <a href="http://www.fostexinternational.com/docs/speaker_components/FE-ESigmaSeries.shtml" target="_blank">FE208E sigmas</a> and <a href="http://www.fostexinternational.com/docs/speaker_components/HornTweeters.shtml" target="_blank">T90A</a> supertweeters in the baffles, but one job at a time. I'm waiting for the crossover components to arrive, it'll probably be in the new year now unfortunately.<br />
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According to the Mark Audio datasheet for the 12P the drivers should be treated gently for the first 100 hours, then slowly increase volume and bass content and the drivers will improve for up to 800 hours! So at the moment I'm trying to resist the temptation and turn the wick up and listen gently. But the speakers already show tremendous potential.<br />
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I wasn't expecting much soundwise as the 12Ps are new and I don't have any crossovers yet but even now they're really very nice, albeit quiet. The pedigree of the 285GMF is clearly evident; it's a wonderful driver - clean, fast and tuneful. A number of James' Quasar designs have used 15" Eminence Beta drivers to excellent effect and are substantially cheaper, but the Supravox are really nice. It's early days with the Alpairs, but initial signs are good; they sound a sweet driver and very capable.<br />
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So only another 95 hours to go and I can turn the volume up a bit :-). It will be interesting to compare the 12Ps with the 208s in the fullness of time.<br />
<br />SimonsNewAdventuresInHiFihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18135925051823781254noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1785499288157034309.post-75071597043125669872013-12-08T08:45:00.000-08:002014-02-24T12:50:58.773-08:00Record Players and Flamenco<br />
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Oh come on, he's having a laugh now surely?! This is his fourth blog and he finally mentions record players, but he's going to talk about Flamenco! And they're not record players, they're gramophones. What does he know about Flamenco anyway?<br />
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Well truth be told not a lot. But the more I experience it (and I think you do experience Flamenco) the more fascinating I find it. Until my last couple of trips to Andalucia the little I knew of Flamenco came from TV and according to telly it's not easy to see the real deal y'know, most of it is for the tourists de diddly dee. Real Flamenco is squirrelled away behind closed doors. Now I don't know how "real" it is but Flamenco is pretty easy to find on the streets, bars and restaurants of Malaga and Cordoba.<br />
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Whilst walking into Plaza Constitution in Malaga a couple of weeks ago there was some live Flamenco mid-afternoon which the locals and a few tourists were enjoying.<br />
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And then a chap in the audience fancied an impromptu dance and joined in. Clearly Flamenco was in his blood. As it was the locals watching.<br />
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I saw him walking away down Calle Marques de Larios afterwards breathing a little heavily and drawing hard on a fag. And looking rather content.<br />
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Malaga is an interesting and vibrant city and as we had an evening flight home the following day we had plenty of time to take in the Flamenco Art Museum. But first breakfast and as a last-day treat it had to be churros con chocolate y cafe doble. General I find that food which is brown is unhealthy. And rather yummy. You really couldn't eat churros every day and live a long life, but as a treat it's fabulous! And I don't drink coffee so you can imagine what a double hit does to me...<br />
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Now buzzing from caffeine, sugar and fat it was off to find the <a href="http://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Travel-g187438-c109265/Malaga:Spain:Malaga.Flamenco.Museum.html" target="_blank">Museum of Flamenco Art.</a><br />
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It's a relatively small museum in a couple of rooms above a bar on the ground floor, but has a number of old wind up gramaphones which were interesting. Flash wasn't allowed so the exposure isn't ideal in some of the photos.<br />
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This is <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carmen_Amaya" target="_blank">Carmen Amaya</a>. I'd never heard of her until a few days earlier when I saw an old film of her in the super <a href="http://english.turismodecordoba.org/index2.cfm?codigo=0687" target="_blank">Flamenco Centre</a> in Cordoba.<br />
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This is a clip from the film <a href="http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0056555/" target="_blank">Los Tarantos</a>, shot in 1963, the year she died. I think it's extraordinary and compelling, and unlike any of the Flamenco I've seen myself. Perhaps because they can't match her speed? See what you think.<br />
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There's a colour version out there too but I prefer the black and white version, perhaps because it's grainy, perhaps because it's the first version I saw.<br />
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Back to the gramophones<br />
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Close up of the horn<br />
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And finally The Graphophone with presumably wax cylinders<br />
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SimonsNewAdventuresInHiFihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18135925051823781254noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1785499288157034309.post-37495577346813026892013-12-01T12:40:00.000-08:002014-02-24T12:51:44.777-08:00Audio Meet - Owston 9th and 10th November 2013Well, not much of a blog this is it? A couple of posts barely relevant to hi fi then silence for four months. I have no excuse but overwork. And whooping cough.<br />
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Yes, whooping cough. Isn't that something kids get? That's what I thought too, but it's more common in adults than children these days apparently as vaccination is so successful. But the efficacy wears off with age, so more adults contract it than the young.<br />
<br />
I've had it for about four months now and although I'm in the recovery phase I'm still not on top form yet. I definitely can't recommend it and I understand why babies and young children can be hospitalised. Anyway, you didn't come here to hear me moan so let's get on with some photos :-).<br />
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<h3>
Owston Park Lodge</h3>
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Every six months or so a number of us meet up to "show and tell" with
our latest kit. As we predominantly inhabit the Audio Talk forum most
of us are DIYers, and most of us prefer valve amplifiers. After that
things splinter a little - some like SE some like PP, some like open
baffles some like boxes, some like vinyl some like digital, and most of
us like most of them. We're a pretty broad church and some of the attendees are commercial, some have become commercial over the years we've been meeting.<br />
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The usual venue is the function
room of a pub to the north of Doncaster, so unlike some dos in hotels
we're all in one room albeit rather large. Acoustics can be a bit tricky
but it suits our ethos as we're all together and meeting up is as much
social (and alcoholic) as about audio.<br />
<br />
Saturday was a rather grey and at times damp day, a good day to be inside really.<br />
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The regulars meets up on the Friday night for a good drink and discussion about various things. The later it gets the more compelling the discussion! Further catching up is done on the Saturday morning whilst everyone assembles their kit. Some have been known to shake their head wondering why it doesn't sound as good as it does at home. Yes, the room can be a killer, but at least it can be blamed.<br />
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And then our "host" and organiser Steve S calls us to order, welcomes all, and provides the important information - like what time the buffet lunch will be.<br />
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Kicking us off this time was Dom and Natalie from <a href="http://www.northwestanalogue.com/" target="_blank">Northwest Analogue</a>. Dom's a nice guy and really knows his stuff with vinyl. Not sure about his choice of handbags though. At least I think it's his... Maybe not.<br />
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They used a Garrard 401 in one of Dom's custom made slate plinths <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9_tKUdeUXrwN-z0sx3ejuuEEy3C0QW61OEsGzVb-6BGrHfHVS45ZsN1pZnZgJZBmjHzQOS3cKQBg9F9kkw779LmwIOXJZNafhGrsuai1Rg1e2nTGI9XNK6tPzNytvlucqvbu3oTH_HB8/s1600/02b.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9_tKUdeUXrwN-z0sx3ejuuEEy3C0QW61OEsGzVb-6BGrHfHVS45ZsN1pZnZgJZBmjHzQOS3cKQBg9F9kkw779LmwIOXJZNafhGrsuai1Rg1e2nTGI9XNK6tPzNytvlucqvbu3oTH_HB8/s640/02b.JPG" height="426" width="640" /></a></div>
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They were also using the protoype of a new cartridge Dom has built. Nat was a bit concerned about photos showing the unfinished state so I've respectfully and if I may say so rather skillfully photoshopped it out in this photo. Okay, I lied, it wasn't very skillfully done, but then I lied about using Photoshop too!</div>
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They used a 5881 SET with 274 rectifier, but I didn't catch what the driver was <br />
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They were using Colin Topps' new Jenna speaker. This is another design from <a href="http://www.wodendesign.com/" target="_blank">Scott</a> and very nice they were too. They'd walk out of any hi fi shop and would retail for a good sum. They're named after Scott's favourite fiddle player.<br />
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Following Don and Natalie was Ed with the first of his two systems. It was Ed that inspired me to create this blog so I could record our meets for posterity, since I lost access to my old <a href="http://www.atrj13.dsl.pipex.com/na-home.htm" target="_blank">Simon's New Adventures In Hi Fi</a> site. Assuming Google doesn't go belly up or start charging for the privilege anyway. Ed also shares my bemusement about the whole concept of golf and golfists. <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhe-gwUOn4KaIJKNr923Hr3PAYrkcC6IAwEeEc39DcevzPf_okpDFtQnfLpnU02GCyFYpA6xq_W94zWl-7OnGdR630h7QbZSLw3KRtxEhb3qoLSCp-YtZHLwPu9vaLnsGlmDaQw8ZAUbjk/s1600/03a.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhe-gwUOn4KaIJKNr923Hr3PAYrkcC6IAwEeEc39DcevzPf_okpDFtQnfLpnU02GCyFYpA6xq_W94zWl-7OnGdR630h7QbZSLw3KRtxEhb3qoLSCp-YtZHLwPu9vaLnsGlmDaQw8ZAUbjk/s640/03a.JPG" height="426" width="640" /></a></div>
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Ed has struggled for some time to fettle his Coleman regs he uses for <a href="http://www.vitalstates.org/diy/amplifiers/vsl-sv572.htm" target="_blank">SV572</a> filaments
but has now found success by using a couple of cheap ebay SMPS for the
raw DC supply.<br />
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Using his "vintage" Squeezebox Ed demonstrated with his kit that he certainly has plenty of know-how <br />
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I love valves that glow!<br />
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The cheap ebay SMPS <br />
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And Ed's own design and constructed VoFo speakers with Fostex 207s (I think) <br />
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Next, going round the room was Mike with Scott's latest design, a double bass reflex with Mark Audio Alpair 10P (I think). Here Scott introduces the concept of the speakers.<br />
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And Mike talks about his <a href="http://www.audio-talk.co.uk/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=2098&highlight=" target="_blank">solid state amp with germanium transistors</a> <br />
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Having used a phone before here myself Mike's a man after my own heart using his iPhone as source. Of course I use Android (this was kindly brought to you by our host and sponsor Google!)<br />
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Having lived with Fostex 208E sigmas for about 10 years I'm always intrigued when I see a cone with a lot of movement , and the Alpair 10P has quite a bit<br />
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And then it was the turn of our host Steve. I like Steve's kit a lot, he ploughs a slightly lonely furrow in the way he does things, but then he has one of the largest collections of early British valves :-). Steve thinks of Second World War era valves as new fangled inferior mass produced jobs.<br />
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Steve brought his new amp finished late the night before (or was that early the same day?) He was a bit concerned about it as he thought it might need a bit of fettling, but it was fine :-). The interstages and output transformers were fresh from Pieter at Tribute, some fancy amorphous type material apparently. So whilst the valves were probably the oldest things in the room the iron was probably the newest.<br />
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PX25 globes <br />
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Source was his trusty DVD player and TeraDAC<br />
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Several pages could be written about Steve's speakers. They're the culmination of many years of experimenting with open baffles. Yep they're baffles, not boxes.<br />
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I'm not sure what this incarnation uses but there's a couple of Fane bass drivers, possibly a 15" and an 18", teamed with a nice Beyma TPL150 <br />
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Next around the room was Graeme who hasn't been for a little while so it was good to see him back again <br />
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Graeme brought his very much DIYed turntable - originally a Lenco GL75 I think? with air bearing parallel tracking arm, and cartridge built by his wife. That's pretty DIY :-).<br />
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Graeme's using his WAD KEL84 PP amp to bi-amp with a Quad 405 to power his Tannoys<br />
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Then we came to Steve (the Shadow) with his balanced <a href="http://www.audio-talk.co.uk/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=5089" target="_blank">KT120 PP amp</a> and Colin's Jenna speakers <br />
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Steve was using his Apple front end <br />
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Following Steve was David from <a href="https://www.mains-cables-r-us.co.uk/" target="_blank">Mains Cables R Us</a> with a selection of gear. <br />
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The turntable was a well-specced Technics. A bit of leg pulling in the room suggested it might be trying to make a silk purse from a sows ear! <br />
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Phono stage was <a href="http://www.longdogaudio.co.uk/" target="_blank">Nick's</a> <br />
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The preamplifier Nick had "knocked up in his shed the night before" according to David. Which might have a grain of truth perhaps, but was a little more leg pulling.<br />
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Dave was using some interesting concrete speakers. A three way design, the fascination for me was the construction of the cabinets. I've long held reservations about using concrete for speakers - when hit with a hammer well compacted concrete rings. I can't help thinking this must affect the resonance of the speaker but as I've never tried it I don't know if that's actually the case. These speakers didn't ring as far as I could hear, and the designer confirmed that he'd added some kind of rubber pellets to his mix which I think may well have been a master stroke. Construction was very good and they sounded like good box speakers to me.<br />
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Meanwhile Andrew was testing various people's amps for them with his super-improved lightweight testing rig, no one a laptop rather needing to lug a desktop down from Scotland. The testing process has proven valuable to a number of people helping them to focus on areas to improve.<br />
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Back to the systems, and following David was Ali who was very excited as he heard his Garrard 401 for the first time after it had been living on top of his wardrobe in storage for a few years. A little fettle by Dom and it made sweet music with his active solid state amps and baffles with Visaton and Eminence Alpha drivers. The pre amp might have been borrowed from Nick?<br />
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Next was Steve again, this time introducing Ant's system (who was outside taking a breath of fresh air)<br />
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Then Ed went again with his second system. Ed was valiantly trying to demonstrate the weaknesses of the speakers and that he'd had to heavily damp them, but they sounded okay to me. He used his F2 this time.<br />
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And then we came to Mark with this Owston's award for most hardcore DIY effort with his <a href="http://www.audio-talk.co.uk/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=1116" target="_blank">multi way horns</a>. Mark asked for feedback from the floor and was promptly told he was a nutter. Not quite the sort of feedback Mark was looking for! Source was James' super Kenwood direct drive turntable, amp was Mark's <a href="http://www.audio-talk.co.uk/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=3827" target="_blank">4P1L-6B4G</a> (I think) with shunt reg power supply.<br />
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Then a mix of kit was put together so we could hear Mark's <a href="http://www.audio-talk.co.uk/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=4819" target="_blank">5687 Aikido pre amp</a>. This was Mark's first DIY build and he was understandably very proud of it. The chassis was built by Ant, turntable was Dom's NWA 401 with the concrete speakers again.<br />
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Nick had a go next, with an active crossover using a DSP board to compare against the passive crossover in Colin's Jennas.<br />
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Greg was next with his WAS 2A3PSE and WAD PREII converted to cathode follower.<br />
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Poor old Dave had been trying to have a go for a while but kept missing out. But we couldn't put him off forever and eventually had to let him have a go. Dave had brought a 300B amp with four separate regulated bench supplies for the HT. On the Sunday we compared the AC heating of the 300Bs with some DC modules Andrew has designed. There was a subtle difference between the two, and the preference was universal. This says a great deal for how well Dave had implemented the AC heaters, indeed this is a very fine amp indeed.<br />
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Last but by no means least was Thomas with his TV trolley masterpiece. This time it was sporting 6SN7-46-300B with Coleman regs for the 46 and 300B filaments and series reg HT. Jolly nice indeed. The first photo is perhaps a little unfortunate, but as Thomas was insistent on assaulting us with Henry Rollins it seems rather appropriate! Sorry Thomas!<br />
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Another great meet with some really good sounds. The standard of our meets is so very high these days. Roll on the next one.<br />
<br />SimonsNewAdventuresInHiFihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18135925051823781254noreply@blogger.com0